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Routes in High Wire Crag

5th of July S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ace in the Hole S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bouncer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bypass S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Contrarian, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cracker Jack S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Deuces Wild S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Everyday Struggle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Everything Rhymes with Orange S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Full House S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ghetto Activity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ghetto Head S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Head Up Activity S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Head Up Dirty S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hip at the Lip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Idiot Savant S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Idiot's Roof T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Indirect Savant S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jackpot S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Left Long Moderate Dihedral (originally submitted as Crack Swindler) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Life After Death S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Machine Gun Funk S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Moderate Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nickels and Dimes S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Notorious S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Overpass S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Passing Lane S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
People's Choice S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Poker Face S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pony Up S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Power Play T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Road Kill S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Road Rash Roof S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road Warrior S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Savage, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Slot Machine S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stone Cold Moderate S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Via Comatose Amigo S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wild Card S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 3 pitches
FA: Alan Nelson, 1997
Page Views: 4,618 total, 22/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Get ready for some variety!

Slab climbing leads to the first difficult move, an 11c mantle problem to gain the ledge above the first big roof. Rest well and then launch into the overhung crux slopefest. Actually, there are some good jugs on this section, although the sequence is a little devious. Route finding on a sport route, who would have thought! Finish by going straight up the final smooth bulge (11b), or wimp out and escape to the right, although the hard part is over.

This is a great route with lots of cool moves!

Protection

The first pitch is short, 3 bolts up to a belay on big ledge. Better yet, skip this by walking up the ledge from the left side to the belay. The upper pitch is 12 bolts and two bolt anchor. There is a 4 bolt 3rd pitch, 5.5 s.

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Eric Thomas
Colorado
Eric Thomas   Colorado
As per Geoff's comment ^, I agree with the need to possibly put in one more bolt before the chains. There's a horizontal hold that definitely feels like it's going to break. However....BETA ALERT COMING....to the right of that flexing horizontal, there's a hidden right hand undercling that allows you to get yourself to a standing position. In fact, this thing has tons of hidden underclings.
Great climb! May 7, 2016
Geoff U
Centennial, CO
  5.11d PG13
Geoff U   Centennial, CO
  5.11d PG13
Going to the anchors is a bit nerve-racking as thin, slabby moves on holds I felt flexing and feet are several feet above the bolt.... I think it could benefit from one additional bolt before the anchors... there is a great clipping stance.... Jul 27, 2015
Garrett C
SL,UT
 
Garrett C   SL,UT
 
Only did the first slab pitch, which was incredible. Fun, crimpy hands to excellent clipping locations. The crux felt like it was getting to the first bolt. Loved this one. Mar 23, 2015
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
 
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
 
I found the first pitch to be thoughtfully bolted and well worth linking into the crux pitch! Sep 26, 2013
chipacles
  5.11c/d
chipacles  
  5.11c/d
I thought that pulling the lip after the roof is quite a bit easier than Hey Good Lookin' (Wall of the '90s), so it seems an 11c/d rating is appropriate. Getting over the bulge just below the anchors is rough after pumping through the roof. Still, the holds pulling the roof are good. Fun route to work out, and with some nice variety given that the beginning (after the first set of anchors) is slabby.

(I started at the first set of anchors, since climbing up to there just seemed pointless and my partner felt better belaying from those anchors.) Jun 11, 2010
SCherry
Boulder, CO
SCherry   Boulder, CO
Fantastic route with a little bit of everything! Felt solid for 11d for me through the bulge as its a devious sequence. It was a pretty warm 80+ day so that might add to the difficulty on this one since the crux has some sloper jugs. May 20, 2009
Luke Evans  
 
Great movement on solid stone. I always thought this looked a little chossy (not the case at all). Super-fun, kinda pumpy, but there are great rests! I am not sure why there are anchors at about 20 ft. off of the ledge, because I did the route w/ a 60m from the ledge and it worked out fine. Aug 25, 2005
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
There is a 9+ TR variation to the 1st pitch between Road Warrior and Road Kill for the bored. May 5, 2003
I'll agree with Alan that the crux pitch is only 11c. I had no trouble onsighting because all the clips were from nice stances (or could be clipped and downclimbed to rest). I consider this route one of the best in Clear Creek, an aesthetic line through a tiered roof of high quality rock! Jul 23, 2001