Type: Sport, 3 pitches
FA: Alan Nelson, 1997
Page Views: 5,026 total · 22/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


58 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project - Completed Details
Access Issue: Closure 8/22/18-10/16/18 7a-5p weekdays Details

Description

Get ready for some variety!

Slab climbing leads to the first difficult move, an 11c mantle problem to gain the ledge above the first big roof. Rest well and then launch into the overhung crux slopefest. Actually, there are some good jugs on this section, although the sequence is a little devious. Route finding on a sport route, who would have thought! Finish by going straight up the final smooth bulge (11b), or wimp out and escape to the right, although the hard part is over.

This is a great route with lots of cool moves!

Protection

The first pitch is short, 3 bolts up to a belay on big ledge. Better yet, skip this by walking up the ledge from the left side to the belay. The upper pitch is 12 bolts and two bolt anchor. There is a 4 bolt 3rd pitch, 5.5 s.

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Anonymous Coward  
5.12a
I'll agree with Alan that the crux pitch is only 11c. I had no trouble onsighting because all the clips were from nice stances (or could be clipped and downclimbed to rest). I consider this route one of the best in Clear Creek, an aesthetic line through a tiered roof of high quality rock! Jul 23, 2001
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
There is a 9+ TR variation to the 1st pitch between Road Warrior and Road Kill for the bored. May 5, 2003
Luke Evans  
 
Great movement on solid stone. I always thought this looked a little chossy (not the case at all). Super-fun, kinda pumpy, but there are great rests! I am not sure why there are anchors at about 20 ft. off of the ledge, because I did the route w/ a 60m from the ledge and it worked out fine. Aug 25, 2005
SCherry
Boulder, CO
SCherry   Boulder, CO
Fantastic route with a little bit of everything! Felt solid for 11d for me through the bulge as its a devious sequence. It was a pretty warm 80+ day so that might add to the difficulty on this one since the crux has some sloper jugs. May 20, 2009
chipacles
  5.11c/d
chipacles  
  5.11c/d
I thought that pulling the lip after the roof is quite a bit easier than Hey Good Lookin' (Wall of the '90s), so it seems an 11c/d rating is appropriate. Getting over the bulge just below the anchors is rough after pumping through the roof. Still, the holds pulling the roof are good. Fun route to work out, and with some nice variety given that the beginning (after the first set of anchors) is slabby.

(I started at the first set of anchors, since climbing up to there just seemed pointless and my partner felt better belaying from those anchors.) Jun 11, 2010
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
 
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
 
I found the first pitch to be thoughtfully bolted and well worth linking into the crux pitch! Sep 26, 2013
Garrett C
SL, UT
 
Garrett C   SL, UT
 
Only did the first slab pitch, which was incredible. Fun, crimpy hands to excellent clipping locations. The crux felt like it was getting to the first bolt. Loved this one. Mar 23, 2015
Geoff U
Centennial, CO
  5.11d PG13
Geoff U   Centennial, CO
  5.11d PG13
Going to the anchors is a bit nerve-racking as thin, slabby moves on holds I felt flexing and feet are several feet above the bolt.... I think it could benefit from one additional bolt before the anchors... there is a great clipping stance.... Jul 27, 2015
Eric Thomas
Colorado
Eric Thomas   Colorado
As per Geoff's comment ^, I agree with the need to possibly put in one more bolt before the chains. There's a horizontal hold that definitely feels like it's going to break. However....BETA ALERT COMING....to the right of that flexing horizontal, there's a hidden right hand undercling that allows you to get yourself to a standing position. In fact, this thing has tons of hidden underclings.
Great climb! May 7, 2016
John Willis
Denver, CO
John Willis   Denver, CO
This route is amazing, but the end is pretty runout on some non-trivial slab.

I took a fall from the ledge beneath the anchors. It can be a pretty dangerous fall from up there -- got a pretty bad ankle sprain from it. In my opinion, somebody should put a bolt right above the ledge on the slab. Jun 28, 2018