Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Alan Nelson, 1998
Page Views: 10,980 total · 50/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


329 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details
Access Issue: Closure 8/22/18-10/16/18 7a-5p weekdays Details

Description

This starts up a steep finger and hand crack. After you move over the bulge, it gets considerably easier.

Protection

8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Eds. Note, there have been hangers missing at times on this climb!

Also, the quicklinks at the anchors were worn QUITE THIN! Now, someone has mostly generously replaced them!
Hill  
A one move wonder with easy climbing above the bulge. Not too shabby though! Mar 28, 2002
Wendie  
Fun climb!! Look for the secret hold in the crack to get you over the bulge! Jun 25, 2002
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
The lone cold shuts at the anchor of this climb were replaced with stainless steel Metolius hangers, quick links, and chains on 11/10/2003. Photos of the old shuts are below in the action photos. Nov 10, 2003
Like a fine wine, those shuts were just getting good!... at least it is good to know that some of those don't just break after years of abuse. Thanks for the upgrade. Nov 10, 2003
flynn  
This may be the only line on High Wire where you can commit the Ultimate Crime at a sport area: jamming! Just kidding...it really is the easiest way to get past the bulge, IMHO. But I'm one of those sickos who thinks crack climbing is fun, anyway. :) May 28, 2004
Nate Oakes  
 
A decent, looooong route... it really seems more like a 5.6 or 5.7 after the bulge. That "secret" hold in the crack is a beaut. May 15, 2006
Scott Edlin
boulder, co
  5.9
Scott Edlin   boulder, co
  5.9
Well bolted crux crack. Jun 27, 2006
climber73
Fort Collins, CO
climber73   Fort Collins, CO
Anyone know why this beautiful crack is bolted? There must be a good reason. Jul 19, 2008
Jeremy Hakes
Golden, Colorado
  5.9-
Jeremy Hakes   Golden, Colorado
  5.9-
The screw locks at the top of this route are getting fairly thin, although still strong. They should be replaced some time soon. Jul 31, 2008
mark solomon
Ashland, KY
 
mark solomon   Ashland, KY
 
The crux of this route (at the top of the bottom quarter of the route) is a BLAST! I did a layback, buddies went straight up the crack, and I'm sure there're other ways to get over it, too. The bolts are in great locations for protecting the crux, too. Once past this crux, it really is a 5.6 or so to the anchors, but a really run route. Sep 28, 2008
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.9-
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.9-
Was this area of Colorado settled by totally unethical French immigrants? Bolts next to a good crack-line are very, very naughty.

VS 5a in UK grades, F5.

Carry a wire (Rock 4 or 5) as there's a good crack by the silly bolt without a hanger! Oct 27, 2009
J tot
Tempe, AZ
  5.10a
J tot   Tempe, AZ
  5.10a
Another case of some idiot averaging a 10a crux move and 5.6ish climb and calling it a 5.8. Jul 4, 2011
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
  5.9
Fun climb slightly marred by unneeded bolts. Clipped one by the wide crack, but this is easily avoided if you have a #4 C4. Bomber gear through the crux and small and fiddly gear for the easy climbing above makes this a great gear lead.

Gear: black Alien-#4 C4, a good selection of small and medium wires. Sep 14, 2013
In October, Dale Haas and I added quicklinks and rappel rings to the anchor. The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support. Dec 10, 2013
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
Bruce, that means the quicklinks I put on the anchors in 2003 lasted about ten years. Aug 1, 2014
I lost my climbing shoes (Scarpa Force - red / white) at the bottom of this route on Aug. 5 around 8 am. Please contact me if you found a pair of shoes. Aug 13, 2014
In June 2015, Dale Haas and I upgraded the anchor hardware with SS quicklinks and SS rap rings. The American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA -safeclimbing.org) provided the hardware. They appreciate your support. Oct 17, 2015
William Thiry
Las Vegas
  5.9+
William Thiry   Las Vegas
  5.9+
Very nice 5.6 climb with a couple of 5.9+ moves. Jun 19, 2016
rozaosa
Mordor
rozaosa   Mordor
Nothing on this route warrants a "5.10" move, maybe 5.9 ish getting over the bulge. Super secure, well-protected. Some nice jams, not sure why this one bolted. Jul 26, 2018