Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Richard Wright
Page Views: 9,288 total · 43/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Feb 28, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


302 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details
Access Issue: Closure 8/22/18-10/16/18 7a-5p weekdays Details

Description

This route follows the far right bolt line on High Wire, where the trail meets up with the rock. The route travels right underneath a large triangular right-facing block/flake. The anchors end up about 5' to the right of the anchors for People's Choice. See R. Wright's comments under People's Choice for more.

Addendum: you can continue up and right of People's Choice's second pitch for another moderate pitch (?5.5) on gear.

Per Bill Olszewski: the thin flake under the main system flexes.

Protection

7 bolts? to a 2 bolt anchor.
Derek Lawrence
Bailey
 
Derek Lawrence   Bailey
 
Although a bit contrived - avoiding the flake offers a great sequence of edges to the anchors - probably 10a, lots of fun! Jan 1, 2001
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
This was the first route my wife and I hopped on out of the truck on our last Colorado trip. We figured it was a 5.7 or 5.8. I found the crux to be just before the huge flake just like the other route description. A nice route to hop on and warm up on. Aug 3, 2001
We accidentally did this route instead of the first pitch of "People's Choice" and found it to be a wonderful face climb or a warm up for harder stuff. I do this route every trip to the High Wire and each time I try to do it differently, and I've found that, while it makes the route easier, the flake offers a number of quite fun variations to the climb overall. Feb 24, 2002
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
 
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
 
I found this climb (not using the flake) to be more enjoyable, more sustained, and more thoughtful than the first pitch of People's Choice. I thought the first pitch of People's Choice had one or two challenging moves just before the slab flattened out, while Nickles and Dimes had a longer crux sequence. Oct 21, 2002
Ryan Henry
Golden, Colorado
Ryan Henry   Golden, Colorado
Just led this one today, and it was great. I agree with the 5.9 if you use the flake, otherwise the face was around 10b or c. It also works great for top-roping and practicing technical slab moves, (very balancy through the middle section). It is harder than it looks, so don't take it as a joke. Aug 8, 2006
Jonathan Reeves
Golden, Colorado
  5.8
Jonathan Reeves   Golden, Colorado
  5.8
One of my favorite climbs if you don't use the flake. I would say the slabby moves to the vertical crack at the ledge would make it 5.10c. I would say it is a bit harder than People's Choice if you don't use the flake and a solid 5.8 with the flake. Aug 16, 2009
Did this climb today after hopping on People's Choice. I found the crux to be just after the 3rd or 4th bolt before get to the big flake on the right side. Before getting to the flake, the face flattens out offering a good lower left foot and higher notch for your right. Pretty slabby, this must be 5.10ish, because it felt comparable to the 1st pitch slab on PC. After the slab, it's very straightforward 5.8/5.9. Oct 5, 2010
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Led the first pitch only. Feels 5.8 using the flake system. Be aware that the thin flake under the main system flexes - I would recommend avoiding it. Staying on the bolt line and skipping the entire flake system yields a nice crimpy variation that feels about .10b. Mar 12, 2011
James Hicks
Grand Junction, CO
5.9
James Hicks   Grand Junction, CO
5.9
The anchors could use some attention. The rings are fine, but the links that are at the end of the chains are in poor shape. Don't top rope off the links until they're replaced. Doing so risks getting your rope cut. Setting a top rope off of the bolts is still fine, and the rap rings are fine as well.

Honestly I'm not sure what anyone uses those links for, considering how easy it is to build an anchor from the bolts. Oct 13, 2013
Alex Badgett
Golden, CO
Alex Badgett   Golden, CO
Climbed this today, and the 5th bolt didn't feel too solid. I'm still pretty new to outdoor climbing, so I could be totally wrong, but I figured this was worth throwing out there! Apr 2, 2014
Climbed this today, 3rd? bolt seemed a little sketch, spun and had rust around it. Anchors must have been revised since the post in 2013, solid single link with rap rings and bolts looked and felt fine. Agree that this is solid 5.8/5.8+ climbing if using the flake system with a couple of excellent slab moves. May 31, 2014
On May 29, Dale Haas and I replaced the old, worn hardware at the anchor with stainless steel quicklinks and rings. The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA -safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support. Jun 7, 2014
Parker Wrozek
Denver, CO
  5.8
Parker Wrozek   Denver, CO
  5.8
Staying left on the slab is what makes this route. Moving right is way easier but way boring in comparison. Stay left of those bolts and enjoy that thin slab. Also probably makes it a 10a or 10b. Nov 1, 2014