Type: Sport, TR
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 4,710 total · 22/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Jun 23, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

100 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project - Completed Details
Access Issue: Closure 8/22/18-10/16/18 7a-5p weekdays Details


I've always thought sport climbing is bouldering on a rope. This route hits home with that sentiment. Clip the first bolt, press your way on to the first shelf. Clip the 2nd bolt carefully. Haul yourself up the fun arete. After the 3rd clip, it's a romp up the slab to the anchor which is shared with three other routes. Be careful with your rope on descent.


To the right of Bypass. This is the third bolted line from the left on this section of rock.


8 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Can be top roped via Cracker Jack or Bypass with some rope drag.

Eds. Be careful not to fall on the 2nd bolt, since it crossloads the top carabiner and can lead to failure at lower than expected forces.


The "business" of this route is right at the first bolt. Don't get psycked out by the big roof overhead; it pulls on jugs. I thought I was going to wipe the whole side of my face off if I blew the mantle on the casual looking step-over at the slab overlap at the start. A week later one of my friends did blow it and looked like he'd had to lay down a 'cyle in shorts! Feb 3, 2002
Alan , your bolting is fine. I agree than any more down low would add way to much drag and they would have to be ridiculously close together. I'd rather risk a little skin vs. a "Sport Park" sanitized solution! My comments were directed to the "Gym Rats" who haven't honed there slab skills yet. Feb 17, 2002
I agree that the roof pull is harder than the opening slab moves. Feet were tricky, I used some heel hooks. One note of caution, if you whip at the second bolt, the biner attached to the bolt could get loaded over an edge. I backed up my draw with a sling through the bolt hanger. Perhaps I'm just paranoid... May 14, 2002
This route can be done quite safely, if there's concern, by clipping the bolt on the route to the left before making Overpass's second clip. Be certain to downclimb and unclip the bolt on the left side before tackling the roof. A Neutrino facing the right direction can help offset some of the spooky issues a normal biner might have in opening on the rock at the second clip. JM Aug 6, 2003
Pierre Sarnow
Pierre Sarnow  
The second bolt is easily clipped at the nose of the arete just after the mantle. The arete has a huge hold underneath. Stand and you can reach the second bolt nicely. Nov 2, 2010
I lost my climbing shoes (Scarpa Force - red / white) at the bottom of this route on Aug. 5 around 8 am. Please contact me if you found a pair of shoes. Aug 13, 2014
Abram Herman
Grand Junction, CO
Abram Herman   Grand Junction, CO
The mantle is certainly harder than it looks from the ground, but once I figured out the move, it actually didn't feel too hard. The crux is definitely the overhanging section. Sep 8, 2014
Castle Rock, CO
aikibujin   Castle Rock, CO
To the people who can clip the second bolt while standing on the slab: you must be giants among men (or the draw is already on the second bolt). For the rest of us hobbits, clipping the second bolt is not so simple. I'm 5'7" with +0 ape index, and I can't even see the second bolt while standing on the slab, let alone clip it from any good stance. In my opinion, if the second bolt was placed just six inches to the climber's left of its current position, it would be a much safer clip for us short people without creating any additional rope drag or weird loading of the bolt-end biner. Dec 15, 2014
Michael Underwood
Broomfield, CO
Michael Underwood   Broomfield, CO
Has anyone else noticed that at the second bolt, a quickdraw's bolt-end (not rope end) carabiner is significantly edge loaded? I hung a standard-sized draw from this bolt, with the gate facing to the climber's right. Tension on the rope caused the carabiner to open. The same thing happened with the gate facing to the climber's left. Basically the edge of the carabiner is stressed by pressing against the rock, and either orientation opens the gate in addition to edge loading the carabiner. A lot of people are going to say that I need to use a longer or shorter draw, but that would have no effect since I'm talking about the carabiner that's actually clipped to the bolt. To me, this situation seems dangerous, since carabiners are significantly weaker when loaded on their edges and/or with their gates open. Feb 11, 2016