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Routes in High Wire Crag

5th of July S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ace in the Hole S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bouncer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bypass S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Contrarian, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cracker Jack S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Deuces Wild S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Everyday Struggle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Everything Rhymes with Orange S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Full House S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ghetto Activity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ghetto Head S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Head Up Activity S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Head Up Dirty S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hip at the Lip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Idiot Savant S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Idiot's Roof T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Indirect Savant S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jackpot S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Left Long Moderate Dihedral (originally submitted as Crack Swindler) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Life After Death S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Machine Gun Funk S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Moderate Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nickels and Dimes S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Notorious S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Overpass S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Passing Lane S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
People's Choice S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Poker Face S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pony Up S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Power Play T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Road Kill S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Road Rash Roof S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road Warrior S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Savage, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Slot Machine S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stone Cold Moderate S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Via Comatose Amigo S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wild Card S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, TR
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 4,326 total, 22/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Jun 23, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

I've always thought sport climbing is bouldering on a rope. This route hits home with that sentiment. Clip the first bolt, press your way on to the first shelf. Clip the 2nd bolt carefully. Haul yourself up the fun arete. After the 3rd clip, it's a romp up the slab to the anchor which is shared with three other routes. Be careful with your rope on descent.

Location

To the right of Bypass. This is the third bolted line from the left on this section of rock.

Protection

8 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Can be top roped via Cracker Jack or Bypass with some rope drag.

Eds. Be careful not to fall on the 2nd bolt, since it crossloads the top carabiner and can lead to failure at lower than expected forces.
Michael Underwood
Denver, CO
 
Michael Underwood   Denver, CO
 
Has anyone else noticed that at the second bolt, a quickdraw's bolt-end (not rope end) carabiner is significantly edge loaded? I hung a standard-sized draw from this bolt, with the gate facing to the climber's right. Tension on the rope caused the carabiner to open. The same thing happened with the gate facing to the climber's left. Basically the edge of the carabiner is stressed by pressing against the rock, and either orientation opens the gate in addition to edge loading the carabiner. A lot of people are going to say that I need to use a longer or shorter draw, but that would have no effect since I'm talking about the carabiner that's actually clipped to the bolt. To me, this situation seems dangerous, since carabiners are significantly weaker when loaded on their edges and/or with their gates open. Feb 11, 2016
aikibujin
Castle Rock, CO
  5.11c
aikibujin   Castle Rock, CO
  5.11c
To the people who can clip the second bolt while standing on the slab: you must be giants among men (or the draw is already on the second bolt). For the rest of us hobbits, clipping the second bolt is not so simple. I'm 5'7" with +0 ape index, and I can't even see the second bolt while standing on the slab, let alone clip it from any good stance. In my opinion, if the second bolt was placed just six inches to the climber's left of its current position, it would be a much safer clip for us short people without creating any additional rope drag or weird loading of the bolt-end biner. Dec 15, 2014
Abram Herman
Grand Junction, CO
  5.11c
Abram Herman   Grand Junction, CO
  5.11c
The mantle is certainly harder than it looks from the ground, but once I figured out the move, it actually didn't feel too hard. The crux is definitely the overhanging section. Sep 8, 2014
I lost my climbing shoes (Scarpa Force - red / white) at the bottom of this route on Aug. 5 around 8 am. Please contact me if you found a pair of shoes. Aug 13, 2014
Pierre Sarnow
  5.11c
Pierre Sarnow  
  5.11c
The second bolt is easily clipped at the nose of the arete just after the mantle. The arete has a huge hold underneath. Stand and you can reach the second bolt nicely. Nov 2, 2010
This route can be done quite safely, if there's concern, by clipping the bolt on the route to the left before making Overpass's second clip. Be certain to downclimb and unclip the bolt on the left side before tackling the roof. A Neutrino facing the right direction can help offset some of the spooky issues a normal biner might have in opening on the rock at the second clip. JM Aug 6, 2003
TBD
TBD  
I agree that the roof pull is harder than the opening slab moves. Feet were tricky, I used some heel hooks. One note of caution, if you whip at the second bolt, the biner attached to the bolt could get loaded over an edge. I backed up my draw with a sling through the bolt hanger. Perhaps I'm just paranoid... May 14, 2002
Alan , your bolting is fine. I agree than any more down low would add way to much drag and they would have to be ridiculously close together. I'd rather risk a little skin vs. a "Sport Park" sanitized solution! My comments were directed to the "Gym Rats" who haven't honed there slab skills yet. Feb 17, 2002
The "business" of this route is right at the first bolt. Don't get psycked out by the big roof overhead; it pulls on jugs. I thought I was going to wipe the whole side of my face off if I blew the mantle on the casual looking step-over at the slab overlap at the start. A week later one of my friends did blow it and looked like he'd had to lay down a 'cyle in shorts! Feb 3, 2002