Type: Sport Fixed Hardware (12)
FA: Richard Wright, 1997.
Page Views: 15,818 total · 71/month
Shared By: Ramin Jamshidi on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details
Access Issue: Closure 8/22/18-10/16/18 7a-5p weekdays Details


DO THIS ROUTE because it's definitely one of the best in the canyon! Simply a fantastic route; fun for both the studly 12 ropegunner and the beginner friends you're taking out. It's 85' down from the anchors, so be careful lowering/rapping with a 50m rope.


10 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with lowering chains. Minimal rope drag, so it's a good top-rope once someone's led up to the anchors.

Eds. As of 2016, the 2nd bolt/hanger and anchor bolts were replaced by Erika & Jim Wong. Thanks!
This is one of the best routes of its grade anywhere. You gotta love how the holds keep shrinking until you find that huge pocket, and the start is cool, too!! Jan 1, 2001
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
Duh-oh! This comment was for "Stone Cold Moderate" which is next to "5th of July." Sorry.

Any-friggin' how, it seemed to me that these two climbs share the same first bolt. After that, 5th of July is a much more interesting ride. The anchors are way back from the top of the wall, which makes verbal communication with your belayer quite difficult. A 50m rope might even get you dropped that last two or three feet as it slips through your belayer's device. That is, if they are walking back to try and see you. Better tie a big knot in the end of that rope thar. Yup. Aug 3, 2001
I think it is easier to rap off than lower on this, avoiding the whole mis-communication thing with your belayer. Aug 25, 2001
Charles Vernon
mind & body in Colorado, he…
Charles Vernon   mind & body in Colorado, he…
I'm curious as to whether any or all of the pockets on this and nearby routes were drilled? Sep 5, 2001
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Charles, I don't chip. I don't drill pockets. Sep 5, 2001
I have climbed this route multiple times. In Richard's defense, these are not drilled pockets; they are as natural as they come. I know a little about this as a geologist. Can you spell weathering? Boy, Richard would be really hard up if he needed to reduce routes to a 5.9 level. Sep 6, 2001
Charles Vernon
mind & body in Colorado, he…
Charles Vernon   mind & body in Colorado, he…
I tried to phrase my question as neutrally as possible; I wasn't trying to be suggestive! I've never seen pockets like that on metamorhpic rock which is why I wondered in the first place--also, I've heard rumors of some CCC routes being chipped, but there are many routes. Good climb! Sep 6, 2001
My second outdoor sport climb, the first being "Stone Cold Moderate". It's a pretty good route. Not a sustained 5.9 climb, but all these routes seem to have that problem. I remember a straightforward jug to get off the ground, followed by 30 feet of steadily narrowing holds, and then the awesome finger-pocket crux! BTW, is this finger pocket real, or an old bolt hole? After the crux, it's 30 easy feet to the anchors. Oct 10, 2001
This is a definite "must do" while visiting High wire. The beginning's not too tricky and adds to the flavor of the route. You'll probably have to wait in line for this route though, so be prepared. Jun 24, 2002
What a great route!! The length is wonderful - one of the longer single pitches on this wall! All beginning leaders should check it out, if they don't get intimidated by the start. It's not that hard, if you stay on the jugs to the left! Jun 25, 2002
Thanks for drilling these bolts, and not the pockets Richard, this is as glorious as it gets! Jul 23, 2002
Kyle Turner
Brighton, CO
Kyle Turner   Brighton, CO
First move is a bit bouldery, be safe and clip the first bolt from the rock to the right. This is a fun route with good starting move. Run up it if you're at highwire. Apr 16, 2004
Rob Migliore  
Best sport route I've done. Jun 25, 2004
patrick o  
I might call it a 5.8 but it's got good rock w/ solid holds, bolts every 8 ft so it's well protected. Good length. Great beginner for the 5.9 realm for sure. Apr 3, 2006
Nate Oakes  
Very nice route. The jugs for the start are huge, and it's a lot easier than it looks. Use a stout heel-hook to help get over it. And I didn't see any unnatural holds along the route, though I think that's been well-covered by now. May 15, 2006
Nathan Hill  
Loved this route!!! I took my first lead fall on this and broke my ankle...still finished the climb...it was great. After I get my cast off, this is the first one I am going to climb. Sep 3, 2007
Dan Stackhouse
Lakewood, CO
Dan Stackhouse   Lakewood, CO
Very consistent route. It's not like you get past the crux and the climb is over. I like that. Bottom bolt shared with Stone Cold Moderate. Sep 1, 2009
Jim Gloeckler
Denver, Colo.
Jim Gloeckler   Denver, Colo.
I thought this climb was fairly stout for 5.9. I'd rate it 5.9+ but I did not see any finger pocket at the crux. Great route that needs some attention given to the anchor. Right bolt needs tightening; might bring a wrench. Thanks to the first ascent folk for putting it up and for taking care of so many climbs!! As for any drilled pockets....I thought it was funny that someone would even think that they might be manufactured. For the most part they are huge! All in all a great route. Apr 3, 2010
Terrific route for lead or top rope. Fun, fun, fun. May 28, 2010
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
Excellent climbing and good falling for the new 9 leader. Made in the Shade is similar and longer at Canal Zone. First move is fun and Tarzan-esque. Oct 12, 2011
Denver, CO
Coppolo   Denver, CO
Spinners at the anchor. Didn't have a wrench. Rapped fine (obviously) but should be looked into. Dec 1, 2011
In October, Dale Haas and I added quicklinks and rappel rings to the anchor. The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support. Dec 10, 2013
Jason Platt  
Great route all around! Fun start leads into really solid face climbing. The crux is pretty long. It spans about 3 bolts on the lower section of the face. When you get to the top, don't forget to turn around and look at the view. It's amazing! Jun 17, 2014
In June 2015, Dale Haas and I upgraded the anchor hardware with SS quicklinks and SS rap rings. The American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA -safeclimbing.org) provided the hardware. They appreciate your support. Oct 16, 2015
Aaron Sefton
Lakewood, CO
  5.9 PG13
Aaron Sefton   Lakewood, CO
  5.9 PG13
I recommend stick clipping the first bolt. The first couple of moves are pretty exciting, especially if you approach from the right side of the gully. However, I think the start to Stone Cold Moderate just to the left might be a little harder, but the rest of the climb is excellent with some fun pockets and dishes. Nov 22, 2015
Golden, CO
ErikaNW   Golden, CO
Both anchor bolts and the 2nd lead bolt/hanger were replaced by Jim Wong and myself on June 16, 2016. Hardware was provided through an Access Fund/AAC Fixed Anchor Replacement Initiative grant. Jun 26, 2016
Good gear lead. <ore solid placement possibilities than bolts. Oct 17, 2016
Chris Ham
Chris Ham  
Very fun, solid 5.9 climbing. Start is a bit bouldery, maybe a V0 move at the most. Pretty easy to clip, but I can understand why some might want to stick clip. Honestly it's less sketchy than its neighbor Stone Cold Moderate. Nov 20, 2017
Josh Levell
Denver, CO
Josh Levell   Denver, CO
What a great route! Clipping the first bolt is tricky (especially if you're short), but the climbing is superb. A great, safe, sustained lead for someone breaking into 5.9. This is the best 5.9 I've climbed in a while. Apr 12, 2018
michael s...
Denver, CO
michael s...   Denver, CO
Fun climb if you don't kill yourself clipping the first bolt. The holds are good but covered in a layer of chalk-slime. Apparently you can "bridge" the gap and clip it without committing to the climbing. It is a bit of a water-groove, the rock is relatively smooth, and a fall would not be fun. Seems like that bolt could have been placed about 8 inches to the right, around the corner. May 23, 2018