Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Richard Wright in '97
Page Views: 13,516 total · 61/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details
Access Issue: Closure 8/22/18-10/16/18 7a-5p weekdays Details


This is a truly fun start! Scramble up to a huge jug, and crank the bulge to a ledge. Continue up the dihedral to a huge ledge and anchors. Lower off.

This was originally a traditionally protected route.


Cams and wired nuts or 7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Quickdraws.
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
The bouldery start on this route requires a traverse with most of one's weight on the hands to the first bolt - definitely the crux. The rest of the route you can "cheat" and stem the dihedral when it suits you or stick to the right face. Either is fun, so do both like I did. Expect to stumble on rests every few feet, if you want them. Aug 3, 2001
My first outdoor sport climb. The description is about right--if you can get off the ground, the climb is finished. As such, this is probably a good first lead route. Cool dihedral, very big, very obvious holds, and not totally vertical. Oct 10, 2001
This is a good warm up route. To make the route a little better, climb the face instead of using the dihedral. Other than that I'd give it two stars just for the warm up. Jun 24, 2002
A really fun route, but beginners might find the start to be a little intimidating. Very bouldery. Also, if you happen to bring a set of stoppers up with you, this climb can be led with gear placed in the dihedral, if one desires. A little spacier than the bolts, but fun and the climbing isn't too hard. If you do get sketched out, just clip on of them bolts. Aug 1, 2002
Anonymous Coward  
A friend and I just did this route yesterday. It's a fun route, but I wanted to mention that the anchors are getting pretty rusted. Plus the left hand anchor is wearing through, at least a 1/3rd of the way. Does anyone know who to contact about replacing anchors in this area?

Thanks. Michael Yarros. myarros@hotmail.com. Oct 8, 2002
Did this route for the first time on Saturday. Have to agree with the previous post about the anchors - they are getting pretty worn. Someone should replace them, or at the very least - rap the route - don't lower someone directly off these anchors. Dec 30, 2002
If you decide to lead this as a trad climb, and you clipped that first bolt with a standard draw, don't forget to use runners for your gear. A fall could lateral-pull your "bombproof" nuts and cams right out and then we'd have to carry your mangled remains down that slippery trail in front of all those gawking tourists in the gambling busses and subsequently cause a rollover accident like the one that occurred on a weekend morning this past March in plain view of the crag. Treat that highway like a 50ft runout on 5.10 rotten slab...minimal contact time. It's really true: the approach is always more dangerous than the climb. May 26, 2003
Mike Mullen
Mike Mullen   Littleton
Climbed on Aug. 13 2003. Both hangers are very worn. Aug 13, 2003
Rob Migliore
Rob Migliore  
Great first route, but the start can be a little heady. Otherwise would be a perfect first sport lead as the rest of the route is solid. Jun 25, 2004
I would like to know why this climb is bolted. There is a perfectly protectable dihedral within reach to the left. If anyone can give an answer to the question of why this meant-to-be-trad-climb is now bolted, I would like their opinion. Feb 26, 2005
Ryan Bibler
Ryan Bibler   MT
A fun direct start can be done to this route. Instead of moving right and doing the hand traverse below the first bolt, place a small cam in the crack and cruise up. It's a bit of a bouldery move, but no harder than 5.8. May 7, 2006
Scott Edlin
boulder, co
Scott Edlin   boulder, co
It appeared that this could be well protected on gear. Jun 27, 2006
Kyle Douglass
Golden, Co
Kyle Douglass   Golden, Co
This route has a fun start, but is pretty much over after that. Aside from the start and a final move at the top, the run is only about a 5.5+ Oct 16, 2007
Mike Pharris
Longmont, CO
Mike Pharris   Longmont, CO
Fun route for sure. I liked the alternate start up the dihedral on the left - for even more fun, work the route staying to the right side of the boltline all the way up. Fun face climbing on tiny holds, good feet all the way. This variation goes maybe 5.7 or 7+. May 17, 2008
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
Why was this line bolted? Oct 25, 2008
Kyle P.
Lander, WY
Kyle P.   Lander, WY
Very good question Jon.
There are other lines much like this in CCC.
I guess it is considered to be much like limestone, it is a sport climbing area, so we should bolt everything. Feb 23, 2009
Nick Orticelle
Denver, Co
Nick Orticelle   Denver, Co
A very easy climb...even for only a 5.9 climber. Was raining when we climbed it and it still felt a bit over bolted. Skipped some bolts just because I'm lazy. Crux is the first move...the overhang at least kept the feet semi dry. May 26, 2009
Smoulder, CO
jcntrl   Smoulder, CO
Not sure what the totally obvious "direct start" variation goes at, but it is 5.fun if you brought a trad rack to the crag. I guess you should probably feel pretty confident climbing a bouldery, brief overhang/roof jugfest if you want to try leading this "variation" (that seems like the more natural line to me than traversing into it from the bolt.) V0--nah, but 5.9 maybe. Pulling through the roof protects well with a stopper, but placing gear above that is pumpy until you get to the rest. I just powered through it and never really felt like I'd be in trouble if I had peeled.

There is an interesting variation towards the top if you lead this on gear: protect as needed in the dihedral but stay right of the bolts; eventually you'll find another protectable fingercrack. A thin face move gets you into the business; a blue tricam works well in the horizontal crack, then eventually traverse back towards the anchors. This makes it 5.8, maybe? Try it.

Why in the world was this route bolted? It goes great on gear! Jun 27, 2009
Brett Bauer
Brett Bauer  
Pulling the first clip is the hardest move. The rest is 5.5.... If you DON'T climb it using the LEFT side of the dihedral, you get a good feel for what 5.7 leading should feel like!
Also this should be a Trad climb! Aug 20, 2009
Tony T.
Denver, CO
Tony T.   Denver, CO
Fun climb! It's nicely shaded. Also, it's a very popular section of the crag, but 5pm on a Saturday and everyone was gone.

The first bolt is a mother to get to. I actually set a 0.5 Camalot in the crack before I got to the first bolt, just in case.

After that, it's a blast. You can trad climb this route, or you can learn how to trad climb on this route. Aug 23, 2009
Ah! You're supposed to traverse in from the right! Doh! I tried the direct start, and didn't have my trad gear with me, and found it harder than anything on 5th of July so I'd say 5.9 at least (but then I'm a fat b*stard, and overhangs with slabby feet are not my specialty - even if they do have juggy holds). May 21, 2010
Darren Buford
Darren Buford  
5.7 likely because of the tricky overhang-ish start to the first clip. The last 10 feet is fun, too. May 28, 2010
Robbie Flick
Baltimore, MD
Robbie Flick   Baltimore, MD
The left, "direct" start feels stout if you didn't bring any gear with you...I would warn the aspiring 5.7 sport leader against this, as it feels quite harder and a fall would be painful.

Traversing in from the right is still pumpy but can be protected, and is super fun. Above the first moves, the climb is 5.easy and super fun! May 23, 2011
TRAD THAT SHIT!!! Only way to go on that route, especially for a beginner trad leader, since if you're not feeling brave you can easily clip the bolts on the face, or do it mixed. Jun 25, 2011
Robert Buswold
Northglenn, CO
Robert Buswold   Northglenn, CO
I like this climb, but I swear the start is harder than the crux on its close neighbor, "Cracker Jack" (5.9?) Not too bad, but it's probably a good idea to protect the start with a nut in that crack that runs up the dihedral. After that, it's a walk to the top. Aug 28, 2011
Bal Rau
Denver, Colorado
Bal Rau   Denver, Colorado
Direct start is a V0 before you're clipped; do it at your own risk. The rest is 5.6. Oct 9, 2012
John Tex
John Tex   Estes
The direct start was harder than any move on Crackerjack, which MP has at a 9. The variation still seemed a little harder than any move I've done on a 7, and for all those people complaining about bolts, don't use them! This whole area has bolts on it, so you are not really taking away from the aesthetic value. It was probably bolted so everyone could enjoy it, not just the elitist trad climbers. I myself am a trad climber, and it drives me crazy when people get uptight about a bolted crack at CCC. Sure there are some crags that should not have bolts on them, but here? Really? This is an overbolted outdoor gym, and that is fine by me. We could use a few of these areas where we don't have to be worried about runouts, and this is coming from a guy who loves runouts and sketchy crags. Know what you are expecting when you come here, and don't complain. May 16, 2013
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Whoa there, Tex...there are plenty of routes in CCC that might not feel like an overbolted outdoor gym. To stereotype it as such is a bit inaccurate. May 16, 2013
John Tex
John Tex   Estes
I meant High Wire in general as an outdoor gym, not the whole canyon, but as I said, I enjoy having a few areas like this where I can simply enjoy a climb. Rereading my comment, I think I came off a bit pissed. That wasn't my intentions, I just don't have any problem with bolted cracks at a mainly sport area. You can always do it on gear. But that is just an opinion, and as we all know, especially as climbers, opinions vary. Particularly on this issue. Anyways, enjoy whether on gear or not.

If you are learning to lead on this route, be careful on the first clip. It is a little interesting. May 19, 2013
Julian Harig
Denver, Colorado
Julian Harig   Denver, Colorado
Does anyone know what gear sizes are needed to climb this? Jul 27, 2013
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
As stated by others above, this should be a trad climb! It's just as safe, if not safer on gear anyways. Bring gear for extra fun!

Gear: 0.5-3 BD C4s, some wires, and a few trad draws to extend placements deep in the corner. Sep 14, 2013
In October, Dale Haas and I added quicklinks and rappel rings to the anchor. The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support. Dec 10, 2013
William Thiry
Las Vegas
William Thiry   Las Vegas
I lost my wedding ring somewhere at the bottom of this route. If you find it, please contact me, because it would mean a lot to have it back. Jul 24, 2014
Grey Satterfield
Grey Satterfield   Broomfield
I'd highly recommend a crash pad for the start of this route. Aug 13, 2015
ConnerM555   Denver
Trad this route. Placing gear is fun!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! trad Sep 22, 2015
Aaron Sefton
Lakewood, CO
  5.7+ PG13
Aaron Sefton   Lakewood, CO
  5.7+ PG13
Bring your crashpad or stick clip the first bolt which is definitely the crux. After that, it's smooth sailing... and pretty fun. Oct 11, 2015
In June 2015, Dale Haas and I upgraded the anchor hardware with SS quicklinks and SS rap rings. The American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA -safeclimbing.org) provided the hardware. Your support is greatly appreciated. Oct 16, 2015
Aaron Sefton
Lakewood, CO
  5.7+ PG13
Aaron Sefton   Lakewood, CO
  5.7+ PG13
I'm pretty sure I left my climbing helmet at this crag about a month ago. It is a grayish Black Diamond helmet, size S/M. If you found it, please contact me. Thanks. Nov 23, 2015
It's a great first TR or lead, but if you are not well versed at climbing outside or bouldering, stick clip the first bolt. Then it's a fun first move. The first move is an 8 or 9, the rest of the route is more like a 5 or 6. Feb 14, 2016
Fun moderate. Doing it on gear is the way to go. Takes passive gear beautifully. Handful of cams to #1 are useful too. The bottom is burly at 5.7+, but hey we all know to fear the "+" routes. It's old man 5.7. Anchors look great.

EDIT: did this again the other day... I didn't realize the standard line starts to climber's right rather than pulling the roof directly. I did the direct start again with a nice nut placed above. I'd say the direct start goes at like 5.10a, if I'm honest. Felt way harder than anything on 5th of July, that's for sure, which the book lists as 5.9, but then again it was more stressful because the crux so near the ground with just the one piece of gear in. Apr 10, 2016