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Routes in High Wire Crag

5th of July S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ace in the Hole S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bouncer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bypass S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Contrarian, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cracker Jack S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Deuces Wild S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Everyday Struggle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Everything Rhymes with Orange S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Full House S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ghetto Activity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ghetto Head S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Head Up Activity S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Head Up Dirty S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hip at the Lip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Idiot Savant S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Idiot's Roof T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Indirect Savant S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jackpot S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Left Long Moderate Dihedral (originally submitted as Crack Swindler) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Life After Death S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Machine Gun Funk S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Moderate Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nickels and Dimes S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Notorious S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Overpass S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Passing Lane S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
People's Choice S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Poker Face S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pony Up S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Power Play T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Road Kill S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Road Rash Roof S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road Warrior S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Savage, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Slot Machine S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stone Cold Moderate S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Via Comatose Amigo S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wild Card S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 145 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Richard Wright, Fall 1997
Page Views: 8,847 total, 43/month
Shared By: Shaun Miller on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Pitch 1: The route begins hard. The crux is after you clip the first bolt. Continue up past the small roof (fun!) and up to the anchors.

Pitch 2: Climb a slab with positive holds everywhere. Fun and not too hard. A variation can be made at the last clip if you go to the left, making it "10ish." Otherwise it's a great way to finish this climb to the right of the last bolt. 135 feet to the ground.

This route can be one pitch with 18 QDs and two ropes. You MUST have a 60m rope to rappel with just one rope, otherwise bring two 50m ropes.

Protection

Pitch 1: 7 bolts with two anchor bolts for the belay. Pitch 2: 10 bolts with two anchor bolts for the belay.

Location

Addendum: This route is located to the left of Via Comatose Amigo. It is on the middle buttress of rock to the left of the gully between Road Rash Roof & Jackpot.
Chris Ham
  5.10a
Chris Ham  
  5.10a
Felt amazing as one pitch, highly recommended. Wanders quite a bit but solid overall. Did it with a 70m and rapped twice, a 60m should work just fine too. 3rd and 4th bolts are spinners, FYI.

I disagree with the cruxes. Maybe because I'm taller, but 1st to 2nd bolt felt okay, what I would expect for a 10a. Definitely stay left of the bolt line for the fun stuff. 1st pitch crux felt like getting to the anchors. It was very, very fun. No need to continue up the gully. Take the committing moves left on the face below the 1st anchors, and smear like your life depended on it. Super exposed, but that makes it even more enjoyable.

There's a second, easier crux towards the top of the second pitch. 3 stars for the sustained 9 and 10 climbing with some breaks on 8 moves. Nov 18, 2017
Garrett C
SL,UT
  5.10a
Garrett C   SL,UT
  5.10a
The crux for me was clipping the chains. Falling here would be a pretty big whip, but safe. Very uncertain footing using a tiny crimp with your right hand. Climbed it a second time, and it felt easier with this beta. Rest of climb felt 5.9ish. Mar 23, 2015
Zeffe  
Did it in one pitch and two raps. The crux, which occurs after you clip the first bolt, felt burly for 10a. I used holds left of bolt 1, maybe it's easier out right.

Most fun I've had a 10 in CCC. Love the length and interesting movement. Apr 10, 2016
Dale Haas and I replaced the cold shuts at the first pitch anchor with SS Powers bolts and SS Fixe hangers. We moved the existing SS quicklinks and SS rings to the new bolts.

The hardware for this project was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA - safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support! Oct 12, 2015
Dale Haas and I replaced the two bolts with cold shut hangers at the top of the second pitch with Powers 5-piece SS bolts and SS Fixe hangers. We added SS quicklinks and SS rap rings. The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association(ASCA - safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support. Sep 24, 2015
In October, Dale Haas and I added SS quicklinks and SS rappel rings to the anchor on the first pitch. The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support. Dec 10, 2013
ChefMattThaner
Lakewood, co
  5.10a
ChefMattThaner   Lakewood, co
  5.10a
Glad to see that everyone agrees the first set of anchors is in a terrible spot. I simply climbed past them and clipped the draw above them. This is a little run out but on fairly easy terrain. Wished I would have brought gear, because looks like a #0.5 Camalot would have been a perfect option to protect that small run out section. Definitely climb it in 1 pitch, and simply rap down to the first anchors and finish from there. Very fun climbing, and IMO the crux is getting from bolt #1 to #2 that requires a nice reach. Oct 13, 2013
Hiro Kurotsuchi
Colorado
 
Hiro Kurotsuchi   Colorado
 
Did this today, as a 2-pitch route to practice our multi-pitch skills (belay from above, trailing a rope, communication, double rope rap, etc.). P1 anchors are in such an awkward position - my leader chose to go to the bolts above and lower to the anchor (it's a runout on easy terrain). This is partially caused by the marked foothold below the overhang which leads up to the anchor.

Suggest you do the route as one pitch to avoid our situation; the group behind us was doing this. The route itself has a fun variety of climbing (1 star for doing this as a 2-pitch, 3 stars as one pitch). Watch your rope length for doing it at as single pitch (I dunno what you need to go up). We came down to the ground on a double rope rap on a 60m+70m.

Side note - I did have a smallish C4 (0.75) and Friend (1.5) with me, there are places to place it near the P1 anchor if you wish to play around with getting to that anchor or protect the runout. May 21, 2012
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.10a
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.10a
SHAMELESS SPOILER BETA: The opening moves can be done by grabbing the obvious crimps and humping up and rightward...which it looks like most everyone does, judging by the chalk...but I think that steals the show and comes in at 9 or 9+.

Didn't see the real 10a move until I was up and over it, but start on the same crimpers and do your best Micheal Jordan reach to a seam way left and high. Gorgeous. Apr 26, 2010
Julius Beres
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Julius Beres   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Well, since someone just posted that a 70m won't make it, I figured I will add some more info. I just led it in one pitch, and there is no way to TR it with a 70m and the rope going through the draws, so I belayed from the top. I then rapped the cleaned route. I clipped into the second bolt while undoing the knots in the end and seeing how far it would go down. It almost reached the ground and I could grab a good hand hold and make the last step down. Also, if you extend your rap device with a shoulder length sling, you could make it down on my rope without even having to grab the rock to step down. Of course, not all 70m ropes are really the same length and it was really right on the edge of my rope, so be careful and safe. Mar 28, 2010
sstrauss
Denver
  5.9+
sstrauss   Denver
  5.9+
FYI: a 70m will not reach the bottom. You either have to downclimb a few feet or tie 2 or rap twice; worth the time spent though. Mar 21, 2010
Buff Johnson  
 
It's a fun route, maybe they can't all be Topo Ocean crimp & friction fests, Bjorn, but so what; the last section gives a good set of moderate moves to finish out. Oct 25, 2009
Josh
Golden, CO
Josh   Golden, CO
A loose block below the small roof on P1 is marked. If you avoid it, it makes your final moves to the anchor a fun and balancy step-across. It is out of the way of the rope line, so still relatively safe to climb underneath and past it. Oct 5, 2009
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.9+
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.9+
I'm gonna have to completely disagree with bjorn, I think this is a great route with very good rock. Doing this in one pitch is highly recomended.

As Adam mentioned, you can bring a couple mid-sized cams (or just run it out) and continue straight up the crack, then traverse back left higher up and avoid the pesky mid anchor fiasco.

Yes, the climbing eases greatly in the middle, but the climbing is still of high quality, and one of my favorite moderate long pitches in the canyon.
Cheers Sep 19, 2009
Bjorn
Leadvegas, CO
 
Bjorn   Leadvegas, CO
 
Considering the heavy star-rating in Darren's book, I thought this route was rather a shitpile. One 10ish move right off the ground followed by a ropelength of blase climbing. Do it as one pitch to minimize time wasted on the affair, or don't do it at all. Via Comatose is much better. May 1, 2009
Adam Berger
  5.10a
Adam Berger  
  5.10a
I've always done this climb as one pitch, and usually traverse over to the mid-point anchors, clip a draw, and keep going. Yesterday I brought a few small cams and placed a 0.5 C4 in the crack to the right of the anchors and kept going up. I traversed over slightly higher up and felt like it was a much more natural line. Just my 2 cents. Oct 30, 2008
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
  5.10a
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
  5.10a
Agree the anchors for P1 are in a fairly silly spot. Moving them 3' to the right would put them more in line with the natural holds, still at a relatively convenient place to belay from, and still line the rope up well. The bolts are looking old anyway... maybe it's time for someone to move them? Aug 31, 2008
jay baichi
  5.10a
jay baichi  
  5.10a
There is loose block midway on pitch 2. Be careful not to use it as a hold. Mar 9, 2008
Pitch 1 goes at harder than a Clear Creek 10a, at least compared to other climbs of that grade in the Canyon (e.g. Ace in the Hole, Jellicle Cats, MacCavity). I would say the pitch 1 crux is getting to the anchors. To make the anchors you have to traverse left from a good stance across a face with little in the way of hands or feet. The section between the first and second bolt at the start of the pitch is balancy, but at least there are holds, particlarly if you stay left of the bolts. If you are doing both pitches you might want to just skip the first pitch anchor. Mar 6, 2006
Michael J Yarros
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
Michael J Yarros   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
Great route. We climbed it as one pitch. Better bring a lot of "Draws" :)

I thought the section right below the top (second anchor) was the hardest part of the 2nd pitch. May 12, 2004
If you don't have enough draws to make it all the way to th top in one. I found the best way to get to those sketchy anchors is to climb up past them and then traverse over on the desent ledge. It's pretty easy but also kinda sketchy. Jul 11, 2003
Jason Carter
Monument, CO
Jason Carter   Monument, CO
The joy of this climb is its length. I've always thought the mid point two bolt anchor was just there as a rap station anyway. Maybe because I've never been able/wanted to climb to the anchor directly as it sits lurking at you from a blank spot on the wall, anyway, it seems way left of the route and low as a mid point belay - even out of reach to clip as you climb past. It's a little run out climbing past it on the right, but I don't think dangerous.

Really nice face climbing to finish - all in all a great route for the grade. Climb it in one, rap it in two. Feb 18, 2003
Climbed this on Sunday - I agree that you should string the pitches together! My climbing partner was dying on that first belay, then I was dying waiting for her to rappel down to me! Also, I'm not sure even a 70m rope would get you to the ground on rappel from the top belay! Tie 2 ropes together or rap to the first belay. Be careful pulling your rope, too - our got stuck on a horn on the way down! Great climbing, though! Bring about 20 draws - it's long! Jun 24, 2002
Linking the pitches makes for a very enjoyable long lead with 17 bolts.

Mar 29, 2002
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Charles, Two thoughts. I'll try to get the numbering organized. Also, some of us like to call this sector the Queen City Slab to differentiate it from High Wire proper that is on the other side of the road and hosts, amongst others, the Highwire route. Sep 5, 2001
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
I tried to climb at Clear Creek yesterday using only the beta from this website (the first time I've ever tried to do that!). This sounded like one of the best routes at High Wire, but unfortunately this description doesn't even give a hint for where the route is! Sep 5, 2001
Derek Lawrence
Bailey
  5.10a
Derek Lawrence   Bailey
  5.10a
Way Fun Route with cool exposure at the top - but the mid-point belay does not seem to be in line with the natural line of holds. I found myself making way thin moves left to reach the belay. I was able to protect this with a small Friend, but without gear I would have been sketched. I'd recommend doing it as 1 long pitch. Jan 1, 2001
Michael Komarnitsky
Seattle, WA
Michael Komarnitsky   Seattle, WA  
This first pitch is beautiful I thought, clean strong moves above pro that make you think, but not enough to really screw yourself up. The first three or four moves off the ledge are kind of balancy - a fall here could be quite painful. Jan 1, 2001
Just an update on the fixed pins on the roof. There is now only one angle in the roof, which is really not necessary--a yellow alien fits just above. The other pin is lower in the dihedral before the roof and the eyes are smashed halfway closed anyway. Jan 1, 2001