Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Alan Nelson, 1998
Page Views: 2,615 total · 12/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project - Completed Details
Access Issue: Closure 8/22/18-10/16/18 7a-5p weekdays Details

Description

Road Warrior can be done from the ground, as two pitches, or it can be done from the ledge as a single pitch, and the following description assumes that you will start from the ledge.

Begin at the left of two double-bolt belay anchors on the ledge that splits the lower level of this sector of High Wire (we like to call this sector The Queen City Slab area). Easy slabbin' gains a tricky corner system below the roof where a good rest can be had. Clip high and return to the stance before launching. The first 5.12 crux comes in pulling over the first overlap. This gains a vertical face with very poor hands and feet, and another 5.12 crux. Gun for the large, friendly looking flake above and get jammed in. A very technical traverse right picks up the 5.12d section. This has been called 5.13, but beta from the younger, stronger crowd suggests that a bit of the sting can be taken out by moving straight up into the overlaps without completing the traverse. Muscle through the 5.11c overlaps on glorious stone.

It is worth three stars by any estimate: continuity, stone quality, climbing moves, excellent pro all add up to another great route from the Drillmeister.

Protection

QDs only. This 85 foot route needs 14 or so draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

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