Anonymous Coward

[Hide Comment] You can actually get off this route with a 60m rope without too much risk to life and limb. Once you've cleaned your draws on rappel...you can just reach the first bolt at the end of your line...just swing around the corner to the right. Come off rap in the little gully/chimney and its only a 4th class scramble for 10-15ft to get down. Not really advisable, but not seriously sketchy either if you've only got one rope. --Great moderate route! Feb 8, 2002

Steve Kelly

[Hide Comment] Really fun route. Did it a little while back and had a blast. A lot more vertical than it seems from the ground with great exposure as you take the ledge below the pegmatite. I was just able to reach the clip at the ledge (I'm 5'11" with a pretty long reach). One question, does anybody know what the route is that goes off to the right? Just curious. Feb 22, 2002

Richard M. Wright Lakewood, CO   5.10c

[Hide Comment] It's "Jackpot" and is listed here. Feb 22, 2002

Hill

[Hide Comment] This is a very good route with a sustained nature, great variety of moves and an airy feel. To me it seemed unlike many of the other routes at the High Wire Crag. I couldn't identify a 5.10b/c crux, but rather found 4 or 5 5.9/5.10 moves. This route is absolutely "top of the line" and my new favorite at the High Wire! May 31, 2002

James Young

[Hide Comment] A friend and I climbed this route on Sunday and found it to be a great line. Perfect for people who are getting into 5.10'ish sport routes. This was my first time climbing at CCC and chose High Wire from a recommendation. I had a blast BTW. Anyway, unless I missed the crux by some odd twist of fate, I too found the 10 b/c rating a tad high. Of course we all have our opinions on ratings but it felt more like a 9+/10 to me. As far as the rope thing goes. My climbing partner and I tried lowering with one rope and also tried rapping with two. By a total consensus of two, we both think rapping with two ropes is the best way to come down. Although, cleaning the draws while rapping was a bit awkward. Jun 24, 2002

Scott Duke

[Hide Comment] This route is totally height/reach-dependent. For those 6'0" and over, it's a solid and fun 9+. For those of us vertically-challenged (5'6"), the first crux move is the clip from the ledge at around the 7th or 8th bolt. It's a totally committing move with some fall potential. Hint: there is a jug up and to the left and a nice right foot hold. Just don't look down! The second crux is the lateral move to the anchors. Very thin but a very well protected fall. Great route. Would NOT recommend it for a TR. Follow and clean and...Yes a 60m will reach down to the ramp, but not the trail. Oct 15, 2002

Leo Paik Westminster, Colorado

[Hide Comment] Beware, when you rappel this route, there is a horizontal edge on a large flake with a bolt on it on the route to the R that can saw through your rope. It cut all the way through the sheath on Brian's rope. May 7, 2003

Terry Gill Boulder

[Hide Comment] I would rate this about 5.10(a). You can lower off into the corner on the right with one 60 mm rope and boulder down from the slab. Aug 21, 2003

Richard M. Wright Lakewood, CO   5.10c

[Hide Comment] 5.10a may be close to correct if you can reach through the bear hug at mid height. I've done it with substantially shorter climbers and got the impression that their moves were harder than that. Aug 22, 2003

John Fields

[Hide Comment] Very fun climb. This may be off route, but I found good hands and feet just left of the face of the crux bulge and stemmed out to get a great foot on the small chickenhead near the nose of the arete. It would definitely be more sketchy to face climb straight up the bulge, but the way I did it, the grade of the route was no more than 10a, if that. No problem getting down with one 60m rope. Just tie knots in the ends when toproping (I think it's ok to toprope -- I did it) or rapping. You'll get down low enough on one 60m for an easy scramble to descend the last 15 feet or so. Aug 6, 2004

John Fields

[Hide Comment] I wanted to make a correction to my comment above about toproping this climb. If you TR it without the climber's end of the rope clipped into directionals above, there is potential for quite a pendulum if you peel off. I toproped it with directionals above. Aug 13, 2004

Nate Oakes   5.10b

[Hide Comment] Fun route! Now my second-favorite at High Wire, behind 5th of July. Feels quite exposed at the crux, which for me was the "bear hug" section that Richard mentions above. A good variety of climbing - slabby moves, an offwidth crack, and juggy moves for the rest. Pretty straightforward, just watch out and don't wander onto Jackpot - at one point the bolts for Jackpot are within an arm's reach of Amigo's bolts. The bolt clip with the big reach everyone is talking about (7th or 8th) can be clipped from the ledge if you are tall or have a large ape index. I'm 5'-10" with an average reach, and I couldn't clip it by about 3 inches. However, if you look left you'll find some good holds that will allow you to climb to a reasonably secure position above the ledge for this clip. The piton at this ledge still remains, but it's pretty impractical if you're using the bolts. Jun 29, 2007

Kevin Wood

[Hide Comment] Not sure if this route is 115 ft. I think it is more 125 ft. Someone correct me if they disagree. Near the top I got confused about the line and 'zig-zagged' one draw (I though I was suppose to clip into Jackpot's anchors) and I ran out of rope...and I have a 70 meter. So close but just short. May 24, 2008

JellieBean Lakewood   5.10b

[Hide Comment] There is some lose stuff at the bottom of the route. Be careful about what you pull hard on. I recommend a helmet for the belayer too. Aug 10, 2008

AOSR Green Mnt   5.10-

[Hide Comment] I could only describe this route as fun. All of the moves are 9+ to 10a. It's well protected, airy, and provides the full variety pack of moves. You'll have just enough with the 70m meter... not to worry. Sep 28, 2008

Rob Westfall Denver, CO

[Hide Comment] Seems to be a discussion between the 70m and 60m camps. I'll second A. Coward since I was able to get up and down with a 60 without too much risk Jul 14, 2009

Keith H. North Englewood, CO   5.10b/c

[Hide Comment] Excellent route, incredibly varied, slopers, jugs, crimps multiple different types of rock well protected. Rope, I have done this climb with both a 60m and a 70m rope. Knot the end regardless of your choice, a 60m will require the leader to belay the second sitting up 30ft on the right side. Or the second will need to do some climbing before tying in. A 70m will comfortably put both the leader and the belayer on the ground in front of the climb at the same time. Mar 16, 2011

Dave Clark 5.10 Golden, CO   5.10a

[Hide Comment] Gee Keith, all those superlatives and only one star? Can't wait to read how you describe a 3-star route. Actually, I think this is one. I couldn't find many faults with it, nor any moves harder than 10a. Sustained, yet not pumpy. Highly recommended. (BTW, shouldn't it be "Vaya Comatose Amigo" ? Sep 24, 2011

Keith H. North Englewood, CO   5.10b/c

[Hide Comment] My stars and description of routes are two very different things. Sep 26, 2011

Tzilla Rapdrilla

[Hide Comment] I seem to remember burning a hole in my chalkbag with a hot drill bit on this one, then the bit hit my leg, caught my attention. That quartzy pegmatite is murder on bits, it dulled the bit so much that the tip of the bit blew right out. Sep 26, 2011

Yannacone

[Hide Comment] Excellente great route and interesting crux move. I grabbed a large chockstone that shifted a bit but seemed solid. As for grade, I would agree that 10a seems more reasonable, and I would also agree that the first bolt once you get into the pegmatite is a bit awkward and go go gadget arm stretcher. Rope length, I used a 60m and barely made it. My partner had to climb up the gully for a bit while holding a few feet of tail to lower me safely, then some down climbing and I was back on the dirt. Hard to clean as this route creates a pendulum pulling you to the right into the gully. If you decide to use anything less than 70m, be CAREFUL, we witnessed a FALL by the next party in line for this route. We gave them fair warning of our 60m barely reaching and they proceeded to climb with a 50m. We started up People’s Choice, and I looked over after hearing a shriek and scream and watched a climber fall and then bounce and skid down the lower slab to the deck. Pretty sure the rope just feed right through the belayer’s device. The kid had a broken R ankle and it took quite the effort to carry him down the 4th class to the road. Oct 19, 2012

Bob Smith III Denver, CO

[Hide Comment] After doing this route again today for the third time, I think that it is a pretty poor quality. There are a bunch of loose holds and many of the moves are awkward or just not fun. Nothing too hard, just not fun. I did use a 70m rope, and it just got me to the ground. If a 60m rope works, you may have to do some downclimbing on an easy slab. Jul 4, 2014

William Thiry Las Vegas   5.10a

[Hide Comment] Outstanding route! Definitely one of the best at High Wire. Felt 5.9 to me, but I'm tall. Someone under 6-feet tall may find this more difficult. Very solid rock with great holds and fun movement. Aug 30, 2014

pcrist13 Colorado Springs, CO   5.10b/c

[Hide Comment] I agree with B. Smith. Did this route recently, and while fun, I found myself finding alternate holds for a lot of jugs that seemed ready to rip off. Be careful what you're weighting. Apart from that, definitely a rad route. Jul 27, 2015

Bruce Hildenbrand Silicon Valley/Boulder

[Hide Comment] Dale Haas and I replaced the worn cold shuts and plated bolts at the anchor with SS Powers 5-piece bolts and SS Fixe hangers. We added SS quicklinks and SS rings to the anchor. The hardware for this project was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA-www.safeclimbing.org). Support is greatly appreciated. Sep 25, 2015

plantmandan Brighton, CO   5.10a/b

[Hide Comment] This route is very fun. The exposure is terrific. A must do for CCC. I had the routes confused and went right at the top to the anchors of Jackpot. The final clip was airy with thin holds. That variation felt similar in difficulty to the lower crux of Via Comatose Amigo. You can just barely get to the ground from the Jackpot anchor with a 60m rope that way. EDIT: Went back and did the route correctly yesterday, kept going straight up. Great finish! A 70M rope will get you to the ground. Jun 29, 2016

Dave Clark 5.10 Golden, CO   5.10a

[Hide Comment] Just climbed this stellar route for the 4th time. Thanks for the nice new top anchors, Bruce and Dale. Beta: a 70m rope gets you down to 10 ft of 2nd Class walking above the trail, so no need for two ropes or rapping shenanigans, and belaying from the ground is OK with a 70m. Also, there are 11 bolts plus top anchors. (Richard's baker's dozen comment may have included the top anchors, or else his baker was cheating him.) Oct 16, 2017

Bryce Kerscher

[Hide Comment] If you are short and can't reach the jug at the crux, throw in a chicken wing or two and a heel-toe cam and you're set. Possibly off route if you do this? Can definitely get down with a 70m. Apr 10, 2020

Harry Yeatman State College, PA

[Hide Comment] Quite a nice route, but it felt a bit soft overall. At the end, I went right and did the Jackpot finish by accident, which was easily the hardest part of the climb - the holds got small, and the feet were thin with wild exposure. Would not recommend this way because it makes cleaning the route hard. Just got straight up instead of moving right. Oct 28, 2020

Prav C Arvada, CO

[Hide Comment] There are a ton of loose chalked up holds in the lower section. Not sure if they've always been like that, but be mindful of what you're yanking on. Apr 8, 2021

Caitlin T   5.10a/b X

[Hide Comment] AVOID THIS ROUTE. As of today 6/5/2021, a large car-size boulder came loose on the route. It critically injured some folks in a climbing party, including the belayer - until this route is confirmed as safe, do NOT go onto this route. Jun 5, 2021

Dwight Jugornot Arvada, Co.

[Hide Comment] As of 4.7.22, this route seemed unchanged to me. Hopefully the injured climbers are ok. I couldn't see where the rockfall happened. The bolts are all there, and I didn't see any obviously loose rock. It is an excellent route with great variety and two reachy clips. Apr 8, 2022

Paul Canney Cupertino, CA

[Hide Comment] Climbed this today with 2 others, no loose boulders or rocks that we could find except for the normal CCC choss with some loosening toaster-sized holds down low Apr 24, 2022

Lang Daly Golden, CO   5.10a/b PG13

[Hide Comment] One or two spinning bolts on this route. Jun 24, 2022