Mountain Project Logo

Routes in High Wire Crag

5th of July S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ace in the Hole S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bouncer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bypass S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Contrarian, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cracker Jack S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Deuces Wild S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Everyday Struggle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Everything Rhymes with Orange S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Full House S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ghetto Activity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ghetto Head S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Head Up Activity S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Head Up Dirty S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hip at the Lip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Idiot Savant S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Idiot's Roof T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Indirect Savant S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jackpot S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Left Long Moderate Dihedral (originally submitted as Crack Swindler) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Life After Death S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Machine Gun Funk S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Moderate Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nickels and Dimes S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Notorious S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Overpass S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Passing Lane S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
People's Choice S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Poker Face S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pony Up S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Power Play T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Road Kill S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Road Rash Roof S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road Warrior S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Savage, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Slot Machine S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stone Cold Moderate S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Via Comatose Amigo S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wild Card S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 202 total, 3/month
Shared By: SteveZ on Oct 24, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

A stout boulder problem off the ground on small crimps deposits you at a decent stance around the second bolt. A few more crimps and long pulls on bigger holds leads you back onto Idiot Savant after the fourth bolt.

Location

This is currently the third bolted route from the right. It joins its neighbor Idiot Savant at a two bolt anchor just below the massive roof.

Protection

7 bolts plus two bolt anchor.

Photos

- No Photos -
SteveZ
Denver, CO
 
SteveZ   Denver, CO
 
I was back up here recently, and I think I know what the deal is. With the newer route Notorious in, there are now three routes that end at the same anchor, and it makes it seem like the 11 (Idiot Savant) is the leftmost. Indirect Savant is farthest left of the (now) three routes there. Really small crimps and poor feet to start. Oct 20, 2013
Mark E Dixon
Sprezzatura, Someday
Mark E Dixon   Sprezzatura, Someday
This is the leftmost of the 2 Savant routes. It starts in a narrow black streak and for me is more like 12c than 11c. Maybe you could skip the crimps with a super long reach?
After climbing above the roof at the 4th clip, you will eventually rejoin Idiot Savant just before its penultimate bolt. A fall prior to clipping this bolt would probably be memorable. Oct 15, 2013
SteveZ
Denver, CO
 
SteveZ   Denver, CO
 
If memory serves, it's the left variation as posted. You're just crushing these days? Or maybe something broke?

...or both?!

Don't remember much about it unfortunately, maybe a punchy crux down low? Aug 3, 2013
Monty
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
I'm confused, is this the right or the left of the two Idiot routes? The left route felt mid-11 (we did not climb the right). Jul 30, 2013