Type: Sport, 140 ft
FA: Kurt Smith and Alan Nelson
Page Views: 507 total · 8/month
Shared By: Mark E Dixon on Oct 24, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details
Access Issue: Closure 8/22/18-10/16/18 7a-5p weekdays Details

Description

Climb directly upwards to the first bolt (hard), then turn the roof with a fun move. Enjoy at least one pleasant surprise. Compose yourself. Head up a pretty face following bolts. It is generally solid and clean except for a bit of sandiness towards the top.

The bolt spacing is reminiscent of the Red Slab.

This route does NOT go to the midway anchor shown in Mark Rolofson's guide, although with some shenanigans you could probably get there.

Rappelling with a 60 meter rope will only get you to the 2nd bolt. A 70 meter will reach the ground with rope stretch, but tie a knot in the end!

It is difficult to belay from the top and bring up a second climber, as they are invisible below the roof and inaudible because of traffic noise. If they fall before the first bolt, rope stretch drops them onto the pointy rocks at the base.

This is a fun sport and adventure route which is worth doing.

Protection

11 bolts, mostly coldshuts with a few modern hangers for variety.

Stick clip the first bolt or don't fall. It's a very bad landing!

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