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Hip at the Lip
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13
Avg: 2 from 4
votes
Routes in Right Wire Crag
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Everyday Struggle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Ghetto Activity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ghetto Head S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Head Up Activity S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Head Up Dirty S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Hip at the Lip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Idiot Savant S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Idiot's Roof T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Indirect Savant S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Life After Death S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Machine Gun Funk S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Notorious S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Power Play T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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| Type: | Sport, 140 ft (42 m) |
| FA: | Kurt Smith and Alan Nelson |
| Page Views: | 1,325 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Mark E Dixon on Oct 24, 2013 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Description
Climb directly upwards to the first bolt (hard), then turn the roof with a fun move. Enjoy at least one pleasant surprise. Compose yourself. Head up a pretty face following bolts. It is generally solid and clean except for a bit of sandiness towards the top.
The bolt spacing is reminiscent of the Red Slab.
This route does NOT go to the midway anchor shown in Mark Rolofson's guide, although with some shenanigans you could probably get there.
Rappelling with a 60 meter rope will only get you to the 2nd bolt. A 70 meter will reach the ground with rope stretch, but tie a knot in the end!
It is difficult to belay from the top and bring up a second climber, as they are invisible below the roof and inaudible because of traffic noise. If they fall before the first bolt, rope stretch drops them onto the pointy rocks at the base.
This is a fun sport and adventure route which is worth doing.
The bolt spacing is reminiscent of the Red Slab.
This route does NOT go to the midway anchor shown in Mark Rolofson's guide, although with some shenanigans you could probably get there.
Rappelling with a 60 meter rope will only get you to the 2nd bolt. A 70 meter will reach the ground with rope stretch, but tie a knot in the end!
It is difficult to belay from the top and bring up a second climber, as they are invisible below the roof and inaudible because of traffic noise. If they fall before the first bolt, rope stretch drops them onto the pointy rocks at the base.
This is a fun sport and adventure route which is worth doing.
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