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Routes in High Wire Crag

5th of July S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ace in the Hole S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bouncer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bypass S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Contrarian, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cracker Jack S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Deuces Wild S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Everyday Struggle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Everything Rhymes with Orange S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Full House S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ghetto Activity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ghetto Head S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Head Up Activity S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Head Up Dirty S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hip at the Lip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Idiot Savant S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Idiot's Roof T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Indirect Savant S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jackpot S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Left Long Moderate Dihedral (originally submitted as Crack Swindler) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Life After Death S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Machine Gun Funk S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Moderate Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nickels and Dimes S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Notorious S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Overpass S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Passing Lane S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
People's Choice S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Poker Face S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pony Up S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Power Play T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Road Kill S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Road Rash Roof S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road Warrior S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Savage, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Slot Machine S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stone Cold Moderate S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Via Comatose Amigo S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wild Card S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Matt Lloyd
Page Views: 3,209 total, 43/month
Shared By: mlloyd on Sep 20, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Start on two good, incut crimpers, climb straight up following bolts to a good rest below the roof (12a/b), then clip the draw in the roof and make big moves out the horizontal roof (12+). This is height-dependent. Mantel and clip the anchors.

Location

This is on the east side of Tunnel Two, right of the tunnel. It is above Hip at the Lip and Power Play and below Idiot Savant. Approach by walking up the slabs on the north side of the road before Tunnel Two (like you're walking to Twitch, 5.12d). Continue up slabs until it's possible to walk left to the base of the cliff.

Protection

9 quickdraws.

Photos

aikibujin
Castle Rock, CO
aikibujin   Castle Rock, CO
Holy reachy bejesus, man! At 5'7" with 0 ape, I felt like I was always an inch or two away from ALL the holds, starting from the first move off the ground. A really cool route, but get ready for a struggle-fest if you lack the wingspan.... Mar 30, 2017
Garrett Garner-Wells
Denver, CO
 
Garrett Garner-Wells   Denver, CO
 
I'm 6'2" with a +2 ape index and thought the bottom of the route was harder than the roof. Fantastic climb! Mar 30, 2017
evan h
Denver, CO
  5.12c
evan h   Denver, CO
  5.12c
Another data point: with a 5'6" wingspan, this still goes, but you're going to have to work in the roof (and do a bit of jumping down low)! Full on Sharma dyno to the lip, and controlling the swing proved to be the most difficult. The undercling crimp is garbage, and I am not sure how much better it was prior to breaking (mentioned above). I'd say maybe 12a to the rest (classic moves), then anywhere from 12a/b to 12+ for the full route depending on wingspan in the roof. Nov 27, 2016
Alexander K
The road
Alexander K   The road
A chunk broke off the crux hold at the roof. The route still goes, but hopefully the hold doesn't break anymore. Overall, there is still a lot of loose stuff on this climb and the bolt line next to it. A helmet may be worthwhile.

The roof crux is incredibly height-dependent. Probably between 11+ and 12+ depending on height and wingspan. Nov 14, 2016
Max Caudle  
 
Rad line! 5'8" and she goes... two ways to get through out from the roof. Apr 28, 2015
If one wants, a lower start is available off of the nice, big, jug rail that forms the first foot for the regular start. This adds some difficulty to the route. "Low Down Dirty?" Apr 18, 2014
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
This seems pretty hard unless you are probably 6' or taller. Oct 17, 2012
monkeyvanya
Denver, CO
 
monkeyvanya   Denver, CO
 
Lower part felt much harder than the roof to me. Roof is wild and exciting nevertheless. Sep 6, 2012
Cassidy Hill
  5.12c
Cassidy Hill  
  5.12c
A nice addition to the canyon and a reason to visit this seldom climbed at crag. Depending on your strengths, the techy bottom half may seem cruxier than the roof. Thanks, Matt. Oct 26, 2011
mlloyd
denver
 
mlloyd   denver
 
I appreciate the feedback, Steve, nice to get positive words on MP once and a while. Oct 5, 2011
SteveZ
Denver, CO
 
SteveZ   Denver, CO
 
Already quite clean despite being so new (much more so than Ghetto Activity). Route climbs really well... fun moves through the roof! Thanks for the effort on some new routes, Matt. Oct 4, 2011
half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
half-pad-mini-jug   crauschville
Nice work, Matt, can't wait to try it.... Sep 21, 2011