Type: Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Matt Lloyd
Page Views: 2,696 total · 29/month
Shared By: Matthew Lloyd on Apr 21, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a strange route. I found it bolted, kind of, a few years ago. I believe it was bolted by Todd Anderson, Nate Adams, or Kurt Smith.

About 7 old welded hangers linked the looming, albeit dirty, giant overhang of rock on the right side of Right Wire. I rapped down the route and checked it out. It had a lot of loose rock on it and had a crux that appeared to not go, so I left it alone until recently. So fast forward to today.... After A LOT of work, it is clean, chalked, bolts were added, and fun. This is how it goes:

Climb through a mini roof to a 12a mantel, climb up and right through some small 11a crimpers to a 5.8 face and a stance below the gangster headwall and roof above. From here, climb the crux boulder problem, a 5 move V8, then bust the roof and get to the 3 bolt anchor on the ledge.

All routes are hard to grade, this route, is even harder. V8 = 13c. With this route, there is no pump factor. It is essentially a 50 foot 5.10 to a V8 to a 12 mantel. Just some weird, sometimes challenging sequences get you to a rest just before a smeary, 20 degree overhanging, technical boulder problem. The problem is rad! So, to put a grade on this is a challenge, it's harder than Sonic Youth, 13a, and less sustained, but an equally hard crux move as Public Enemy, 13c... so I think you could take b or c... if that helps.

Advice: use long draws, this route wanders a bit and climbs through many small roofs and edges.

The next step it to link "Notorious", the route to the right, into the crux of "Life After Death". This linkup may or may not be harder than the individual parts but will definitely be more classic.

Location

Just uphill from Notorious on Right Wire, this can be identified by the old welded wire hanger placed in the black dihedral.

Protection

12 long draws and 2 for the anchor.

Photos