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Routes in High Wire Crag

5th of July S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ace in the Hole S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bouncer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bypass S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Contrarian, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cracker Jack S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Deuces Wild S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Everyday Struggle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Everything Rhymes with Orange S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Full House S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ghetto Activity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ghetto Head S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Head Up Activity S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Head Up Dirty S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hip at the Lip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Idiot Savant S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Idiot's Roof T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Indirect Savant S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jackpot S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Left Long Moderate Dihedral (originally submitted as Crack Swindler) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Life After Death S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Machine Gun Funk S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Moderate Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nickels and Dimes S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Notorious S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Overpass S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Passing Lane S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
People's Choice S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Poker Face S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pony Up S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Power Play T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Road Kill S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Road Rash Roof S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road Warrior S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Savage, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Slot Machine S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stone Cold Moderate S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Via Comatose Amigo S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wild Card S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Matt Lloyd
Page Views: 1,976 total, 35/month
Shared By: mlloyd on Apr 21, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a strange route. I found it bolted, kind of, a few years ago. I believe it was bolted by Todd Anderson, Nate Adams, or Kurt Smith.

About 7 old welded hangers linked the looming, albeit dirty, giant overhang of rock on the right side of Right Wire. I rapped down the route and checked it out. It had a lot of loose rock on it and had a crux that appeared to not go, so I left it alone until recently. So fast forward to today.... After A LOT of work, it is clean, chalked, bolts were added, and fun. This is how it goes:

Climb through a mini roof to a 12a mantel, climb up and right through some small 11a crimpers to a 5.8 face and a stance below the gangster headwall and roof above. From here, climb the crux boulder problem, a 5 move V8, then bust the roof and get to the 3 bolt anchor on the ledge.

All routes are hard to grade, this route, is even harder. V8 = 13c. With this route, there is no pump factor. It is essentially a 50 foot 5.10 to a V8 to a 12 mantel. Just some weird, sometimes challenging sequences get you to a rest just before a smeary, 20 degree overhanging, technical boulder problem. The problem is rad! So, to put a grade on this is a challenge, it's harder than Sonic Youth, 13a, and less sustained, but an equally hard crux move as Public Enemy, 13c... so I think you could take b or c... if that helps.

Advice: use long draws, this route wanders a bit and climbs through many small roofs and edges.

The next step it to link "Notorious", the route to the right, into the crux of "Life After Death". This linkup may or may not be harder than the individual parts but will definitely be more classic.

Location

Just uphill from Notorious on Right Wire, this can be identified by the old welded wire hanger placed in the black dihedral.

Protection

12 long draws and 2 for the anchor.
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
I figured it was from the original equipper. Gracias for finishing that one up. The upper boulder problem is pretty cool. Jul 2, 2015
mlloyd
denver
 
mlloyd   denver
 
That bolt is a remnant of who ever first bolted this line. I found it half-bolted and in serious need of cleaning. I also added about 6 bolts to complete the line. Jul 1, 2015
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
Curious as to what the story is with the bolt sticking out 2 inches or more at the lip of this route? Jun 29, 2015
mlloyd
denver
 
mlloyd   denver
 
Nice work, Ethan, I'm glad you liked it, nice to see it getting climbed. May 3, 2015
Ethan Davis
Hailey, ID
  5.13-
Ethan Davis   Hailey, ID
  5.13-
Really enjoy the climbing, even the bottom section. Thanks for the work put in to this! Apr 25, 2015
Ben Lindfors
  5.13c
Ben Lindfors  
  5.13c
This route is sick!! okay start to a great finish. Thanks, Matt, for the hard work cleaning this up! Feels harder than Public Enemy. Jun 9, 2013