Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Matt Lloyd
Page Views: 2,195 total · 30/month
Shared By: Matthew Lloyd on Apr 21, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project - Completed Details
Access Issue: Closure 8/22/18-10/16/18 7a-5p weekdays Details

Description

This is a strange route. I found it bolted, kind of, a few years ago. I believe it was bolted by Todd Anderson, Nate Adams, or Kurt Smith.

About 7 old welded hangers linked the looming, albeit dirty, giant overhang of rock on the right side of Right Wire. I rapped down the route and checked it out. It had a lot of loose rock on it and had a crux that appeared to not go, so I left it alone until recently. So fast forward to today.... After A LOT of work, it is clean, chalked, bolts were added, and fun. This is how it goes:

Climb through a mini roof to a 12a mantel, climb up and right through some small 11a crimpers to a 5.8 face and a stance below the gangster headwall and roof above. From here, climb the crux boulder problem, a 5 move V8, then bust the roof and get to the 3 bolt anchor on the ledge.

All routes are hard to grade, this route, is even harder. V8 = 13c. With this route, there is no pump factor. It is essentially a 50 foot 5.10 to a V8 to a 12 mantel. Just some weird, sometimes challenging sequences get you to a rest just before a smeary, 20 degree overhanging, technical boulder problem. The problem is rad! So, to put a grade on this is a challenge, it's harder than Sonic Youth, 13a, and less sustained, but an equally hard crux move as Public Enemy, 13c... so I think you could take b or c... if that helps.

Advice: use long draws, this route wanders a bit and climbs through many small roofs and edges.

The next step it to link "Notorious", the route to the right, into the crux of "Life After Death". This linkup may or may not be harder than the individual parts but will definitely be more classic.

Location

Just uphill from Notorious on Right Wire, this can be identified by the old welded wire hanger placed in the black dihedral.

Protection

12 long draws and 2 for the anchor.

Photos

Ben Lindfors
  5.13c
Ben Lindfors  
  5.13c
This route is sick!! okay start to a great finish. Thanks, Matt, for the hard work cleaning this up! Feels harder than Public Enemy. Jun 9, 2013
Ethan Davis
Hailey, ID
  5.13-
Ethan Davis   Hailey, ID
  5.13-
Really enjoy the climbing, even the bottom section. Thanks for the work put in to this! Apr 25, 2015
Matthew Lloyd
denver, colorado
  5.13b/c
Matthew Lloyd   denver, colorado
  5.13b/c
Nice work, Ethan, I'm glad you liked it, nice to see it getting climbed. May 3, 2015
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
Curious as to what the story is with the bolt sticking out 2 inches or more at the lip of this route? Jun 29, 2015
Matthew Lloyd
denver, colorado
  5.13b/c
Matthew Lloyd   denver, colorado
  5.13b/c
That bolt is a remnant of who ever first bolted this line. I found it half-bolted and in serious need of cleaning. I also added about 6 bolts to complete the line. Jul 1, 2015
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
I figured it was from the original equipper. Gracias for finishing that one up. The upper boulder problem is pretty cool. Jul 2, 2015