Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Matt Lloyd, bolted with help of Keith North and Jose Rodriguez
Page Views: 7,827 total · 97/month
Shared By: Matthew Lloyd on Apr 17, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


35 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details
Access Issue: Closure 8/22/18-10/16/18 7a-5p weekdays Details

Description

Climb the giant roof that is visible from the road. Start with excellent 5.11a climbing to a rest at the roof, then bust a creative, upside down, V7 boulder problem out the 15 foot roof to gain a sweet hand wrap and a jug at the lip. Climb easy terrain to the anchors 15 feet above. FYI, there are no bolts above the lip leading to the anchors (there are anchors), I may go back and add some bolts later if people insist. The fall is safe.

The routes grade may be quite subjective, if you love swinging on strap holds, this thing could be a bit on the easier side. Either way, I enjoyed putting it up, so enjoy climbing it.

Location

This is the line busting through the roof, it is pretty easy to find. Use the same approach as Idiot's Roof but one route to the right (shares the first bolt).

Protection

11 QDs.

Photos

Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
Hell ya Matt, nice work, man! Can't wait to get up there and check this one out! Nice to see others putting up some routes in the canyon as well, we all appreciate it. Apr 18, 2012
Keith H. North
Englewood, CO
  5.13a
Keith H. North   Englewood, CO
  5.13a
Do it.... Route is Awesome! Apr 18, 2012
SteveZ
Denver, CO
  5.12d
SteveZ   Denver, CO
  5.12d
This line is so good, well bolted, gymnastic, and STEEP! A classic for CCC in my opinion... thanks for the work, guys. Sep 19, 2012
Matthew Lloyd
denver colorado
  5.13a
Matthew Lloyd   denver colorado
  5.13a
Steve, I'm psyched you liked it. Thanks for the props. Nice work! Sep 21, 2012
So did you change the name to Machine Gun Disco, or did you change it to Machine Gun Funk? Sep 27, 2012
Matthew Lloyd
denver colorado
  5.13a
Matthew Lloyd   denver colorado
  5.13a
No, I'm just an idiot and just said the name wrong once, and it stuck.... Damn PBR, the name of the route is Machine Gun Funk, Machine Gun Disco (I didn't know at the time... is a 12 in Indian Creek). Sep 27, 2012
Tyler Fox  
 
This is a really fun route. Get psyched to get creative on the roof; however, don't fall past the lip. If you pull through the roof, you definitely shouldn't fall on the juggy face, but my partner decided it would be fun to jump and managed to violently swing into the wall - just a head's up. Also, plan for a little rope drag - bring some extendables. Other than that, this things super safe and super rad! Feb 7, 2013
Mason Caiby
  5.12b/c
Mason Caiby  
  5.12b/c
I think this is the coolest route at the High Wire crag. Definitely a cool problem through the roof. I think it might be soft for the grade, but I've never been good at grades. Also, there's a lot of loose rock/choss (sp?), so you're belay better be ready for some projectiles.

Sick line, sick moves. Feb 8, 2013
Cassidy Hill
  5.13a
Cassidy Hill  
  5.13a
Some holds have broken out the roof on this climb. The key undercling is gone, leaving a flat, "nub" type hold. This is still useable but notably harder. Unfortunately though, the key right hand crimp towards the lip of the roof is gone, and that left nothing in its place. The climb may still go but not the way I was doing it/have seen it done and probably not at 12d. Apr 12, 2013
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
This is a great route that is cleaning up nicely. I can't imagine anything else breaking off in the roof. Definitely not soft for the grade anymore. Jul 30, 2013
     
Feels like a stout 13a with the broken holds. Good luck if you don't have a long wingspan! Mar 26, 2015
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.13a
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.13a
I'm sure there are various ways to climb through the boulder problem at the roof, but I found some beta that I haven't seen anyone in these pics using. If you're stuck and want to try something different, then PM me.

Great route, Matt! One of the better 13a's in the canyon for sure. Jul 1, 2015
Aaron Ramras
  5.12c
Aaron Ramras  
  5.12c
I also found alternative beta to what is shown in the photos, and I believe it made the climbing significantly easier...however, the right hand I used was horribly sharp, and the crux was getting my fingers out of the hold without leaving any behind. My sequence was far too painful to be any fun, and my right pointer finger is still numb two days later. Maybe the sequence shown in the photos makes the route harder and more aesthetic? Jul 14, 2015
Derek Young
Denver, CO
Derek Young   Denver, CO
Worked this some more today with DPug. We're getting really close and amped to take this thing down soon. Thanks so much for putting this line up, Matt!

Condition update:
- Roof draws: the draws in the roof were hosting some badly worn biners (bolt and rope sides), so we swapped a bunch of them out. I donated some decent BD wires to the cause and freshen things up. The dogbones looked absolutely fine. So, to whoever left draws on the roof bolts - THANK YOU! - and if you'd like the biners we took down, please PM me and I'd be happy to give them to you.

- Bolt #2 in the roof hosted a semi-loose hanger. We checked the bolt, and it was solid. The hanger just moves.

All else looked great. Feb 13, 2016
Mike Drinker
Wheat Ridge, CO
Mike Drinker   Wheat Ridge, CO
Replaced the hanger side biner at the lip of the crux yesterday. It was getting pretty gnarly looking. Enjoy. May 19, 2016
Ryan Gajewski
Longmont, Co.
 
Ryan Gajewski   Longmont, Co.
 
We updated the roof draws that were showing bad wear. (We left the steel draw, it was still bomber.)

Get on it! Even at 5'7" the route can be done statically. Oct 3, 2017
Pinklebear  
 
Plenty doable, at 5'6", without the sharp hold, making for a cool, wild, creative sequence. Think toe scums and heel hooks; the holds aren't as far away as you think if you get set up properly. Very cool climb. Oct 29, 2018