Marta Reece > Comments
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Jan 28, 2015
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If soloing the route, you can skip the steep, pocketed face and walk behind the formation for an easy step-…
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Jun 18, 2014
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Bail option: If you were to set up your rap anchor at the Pitch 3 belay, two 60m ropes would take you to th…
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May 22, 2014
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The original rap line on the south to Normal Route was set up for a single 60m back in the day. However, th…
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May 4, 2014
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An alternative Pitch 3 is to go right from P2 belay, traversing on a rounded boulder, and take the next chi…
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Apr 5, 2014
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The top, difficult part of the slab on Pitch 4 can be completely avoided by going left at the last pro plac…
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Mar 22, 2014
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West side deproach: follow the ridge line of Gertch practically all the way to Low Horn 1. Drop down on the…
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Jan 27, 2014
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We have tried to follow this pair of topos with some diligence and found them less than reliable. The lines…
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Jan 27, 2014
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We have tried to follow this pair of topos with some diligence and found them less than reliable. The lines…
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Jan 22, 2014
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This route was originally posted under the name "Bastard," which we took from an old topo of the Lambda Wal…
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Jan 14, 2014
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Many thanks to Pat Gioannini (climber pat) for spending his Christmas Eve doing the re-bolting this route s…
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Jan 12, 2014
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For more information and photos you can check out adifferentkindofparadise.wo… courtesy of Dan Car…
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Jan 12, 2014
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Looking for a warmup? Lowenbrau Light is a good climb, but with its crux start it does not provide an ideal…
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Jan 10, 2014
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Approach: Turn off the regular trail to Lambda Wall above the large tree and traverse left on easy but feat…
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Jan 1, 2014
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West side approach: More painful, but definitely far less strenuous and shorter in terms of both distance a…
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Jan 1, 2014
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We have tried to follow the topo for Yellow Brick Road. The first pitch is basically a dirty fourth class,…
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Dec 28, 2013
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The trail has been over-used. Instead of following cairns, you now scramble up loose debris in a trough dug…
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Dec 24, 2013
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The first bolt you come to is not part of the anchor. Continue few feet south to a pair of bolts. Bring sli…
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Dec 17, 2013
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A way to avoid the hanging belay, along with the possibility of loose rocks hitting said belay: (As descri…
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Dec 17, 2013
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Charlie Cundiff's rating on his topo is 5.9+. I'd say the crux (going straight up, I didn't see another way…
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Dec 17, 2013
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East side approach: Go up the north fork of the Pine Tree Trail up to a gully with a short, thick, black lo…
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Nov 29, 2013
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As best I can tell this is the same as the finish of King Me. If somebody knows better, please straighten m…
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Nov 24, 2013
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I found a "variation" listed in the NMSU-archived documents of the Southwest Mountaineers. It's classified…
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Nov 5, 2013
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I believe the dihedral you take to the Flea Tree is actually not visible. The obvious crack leading toward…
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Nov 4, 2013
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There are some loose rocks on the bottom two pitches, as well as on the start of Pitch 4, occasionally siza…
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Nov 1, 2013
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For more information on the Normal Route you can go to summitpost.org/forget-about… or web.nmsu.ed…
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Oct 28, 2013
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Guide to the slab version: Approach as for Cross-trainer, going left on the slabby ground below it. Leav…
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Oct 17, 2013
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The full-slab version of the route is great - not just pitch 1, but the full 200-foot pitch 2, which goes f…
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Oct 8, 2013
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I have rapped off the Finger Zinger bolts on a single 70m rope.
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Oct 6, 2013
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Continuing to the right after avoiding the roof all the way up makes the route about twice as long but not…
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Sep 17, 2013
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Low Horn 6 can also be scrambled, but again some climbers will choose to rope up. Doing all six Low Horns i…
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Aug 28, 2013
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Alternative start: The route can be started directly from the slab to the left of start of Cross-traine…
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Aug 9, 2013
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I agree with the bomb rating. Not only the route, but the entire area should be avoided on account of poor…
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Jul 28, 2013
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"Wizard Road" - starting with Wizard of Ooze and continuing on Yellow Brick Road. A quality route (and acco…
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Jul 28, 2013
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The thirds pitch is on some of the chossiest rock I have seen anywhere in the Organs and I would avoid it.…
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Jul 26, 2013
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The top-rope can be set up where Murray's crack reaches the wide ledge at the top of the first pitch of the…
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Jul 26, 2013
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Pitch 1 can be profitably split in two by stopping on a ledge at the base of the dihedral. (The bush with s…
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