Elevation: 8,667 ft
GPS: 32.346, -106.562 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 12,112 total · 184/month
Shared By: Marta Reece on Jul 23, 2013
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

The Organ Needle is the highest and probably the most visited peak in the Organs. The trail to it can be reached from either La Cueva or Modoc Mine Road and winds up the west side of it. (It has been overused and is in horrible condition.) When you reach Hummingbird Saddle (at the top of Dark Canyon) the Retaining Wall is to your right, Minerva's Temple lower down ahead of you, about the direction of Sugarloaf.

The Squaretops are to the north of Organ Needle. As viewed from Organ Needle, there are two peaks divided by a gully running North-South between them. The peak to the left is refered to as Little Sqauretop and is the peak that is seen when gazing at the Organs from the West. The peak on the right is referred to as Little Squaretop Massif and is similarly the only peak visible when gazing at the Organs from the East. To make these names even more confusing, Squaretop peak (or Big Squaretop) is the square-like cog further north along the mountain ridge, but it only resembles a square-cog when viewed from the west.

There are a number of old mountaineering routes up to these summits, as well as steep technical climbs which can be found on the myriad of faces, ridges, and pinnacles which surround these peaks. These include the Tiger Fang formation, found low on the northeast side of Little Squaretop Massif, which is a stunning shark-fin-like pinnacle first climbed in 1956.

Getting There

From La Cueva or Modoc Mine Road, or on the east side from about the middle of Pine Tree Trail, look at individual peaks and/or routes for details.

18 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Needle and Squaretops

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
 12
Normal Route
Trad
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
 4
Ingraham's Gully
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Normal Route Organ Needle
 12
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Trad
Ingraham's Gully Organ Needle
 4
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Needle and Squaretops »

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