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Routes in Squaretop

South East Arete T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Description

Squaretop is a distinctive square cog sticking out from the north ridge-line of the Little Squaretop Massif complex. While technically not its own mountain, it is distinctly separated from the Little Squaretop summit and its striking profile make it a worthwhile destination for any Organ Mountain climber. Routes are classic Organ Mountain scrambling with a little bit of 5th class climbing mixed in. As with many other Organ Mountain peaks, there are plenty of untapped steep walls along the way, and even some killer steep lines on the summit block itself. Despite these eye-catching walls, it's more probable that Squaretop will appeal to the peak-bagging scrambler type climber than the serious 5th class expert. The standard routes have a full mix of everything that make the Organs great, long technical scrambles, heavy bush-whacking, and just enough summit exposure to thrill.
Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Getting There

The "trade" routes (as listed in the Ingraham guide) are approached from the west using the Modoc mine road. Approaches are typically long, involve bushwhacking, and include some degree of 3rd class scrambling. But don't let that put you off, it's a worthy peak!

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