Organ Mountains Climbing
|GPS:||32.35, -106.566 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||517,985 total · 2,784/month|
|Shared By:||Aaron Hobson on Jan 23, 2006|
|Admins:||Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
Some favorites which may appeal to you, depending on what you are after:
Easy climbing made adventurous by long runouts on ultra-long routes Sugarloaf
Classic lines up steep, clean granite The Tooth
Sunny cragging in the winter Southern Comfort Wall
Shady cragging in the summer The Citadel
Climbing within the sight of the parking lot La Cueva
Bouldering in the south Organs Pena Blanca
Bouldering on the east side Aguirre Bouldering
An impressive summit gained with some effort The Wedge
Overview of Areas
The mountain range divides naturally into North and South Organs. South Organs are largely off limits, being on Fort Bliss or White Sands Missile Range, and for the most part decidedly chossy. Almost all of the climbing here is in the southwestern end at Pena Blanca, and it is predominantly bouldering.
The northern half of the the range is granite. It starts from the south with the Organ Needle and Square Top area and continues with High Horns and Low Horns. Going north, the range splits into two parallel lines of peaks - Rabbit Ears in the east and Rabbit Ears Towers in the west - separated by Rabbit Ears Canyon. The north end is again basically a single chain of peaks which gets progressively less rocky.
Separate from the main line of the range, approximately east from the Needle is Sugarloaf. It is also granite, but it is an exfoliation dome studded with chicken heads rather than the blocky terrain typical of the rest of the range.
Also away from the main ridge line, low in the west and close to Fillmore Canyon (the line separating North and South Organs), is La Cueva.
Listing of areas (generally from north to south)
Rabbit Ears Area
. Eastern line of peaks
.....North Rabbit Ear
.....Middle Rabbit Ear
.....South Rabbit Ear
.....Pyramid of South Rabbit Ear
. Western line of peaks
. Western foothills
.....Rabbit Ears Slabs
.....Northern Exposure Wall
.....Southern Comfort Wall
The Low Horns
.....Low Horn 1
.....Low Horn 2
.....Low Horn 3
.....Low Horn 4 (McCalla Horn)
.....Low Horn 5
.....Low Horn 6
The High Horns
. The line of the peaks
. The western foothills
Needle and Squaretops
.....The Retaining Wall
Expect 1-4 hours for the approach and be prepared for desert sun and plenty of hostile plants.
The guidebook "Rock Climbing New Mexico" by Dennis Jackson has a short section that is useful for climbing in the Organs. A new edition is now out (2006) and includes a bit more info on the area.
A few online resources are helpful. R.L Ingraham Guide to the Organs This is a guide written in the 70's and gives descriptions of most peaks and approaches.
To appreciate the early pioneers, Dick Ingraham in particular, and to get a feel for what it was like back then you can check mountainproject.com/v/dick-…
There is also a series of Topos (Rock & Ice #48 for one) for some of the more popular walls. However, it lacks detailed route descriptions and the topos have now been posted to Mountain Project into the relevant areas. If you need more information feel free to contact Marta Reece.
Classic Climbing Routes at Organ Mountains
Days w Precip