Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: FA 15 Apr. 1973 5.7 A3 Leland Davis, Reed Cundiff, Cliff Naveaux & Mark Losleben, FFA: Edmund Ward & Karl Kiser, ca. 1979
Page Views: 3,891 total · 27/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Feb 11, 2008 with improvements by Karl R. Kiser
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Power drilling is prohibited in the Organ Mountains Wilderness. Details

Description

This climb seeks out the obvious left-facing dihedral on the right side of the clean face on the Tooth. The climbing is more physical and burlier than that of the other routes, but is high quality.

Pitch 1. Climb the thin crack below the triangular roof, clip bolt, and traverse right to a 1-bolt (+your own gear) belay at the corner of the roof. (5.8) This pitch is the same as the start of Tooth Fairy and Tooth or Consequences, and a couple of other variations exist too (a 5.8+ R thin-crack start below the belay, or a 5.10+ face that reaches the same belay from the right side). It's possible to extend this pitch to the 3-bolt anchor at 160' but with bad rope drag.

Pitch 2. Follow the rail to the right, then follow a thin-hands crack up and left. Cruise past a 3-bolt belay for Tooth or Consequences to a 2-bolt anchor by the next small tree (this is where Tooth Fairy moves left across the slab) (5.9-).

Pitch 3. Up the right angling crack filled with yuccas and grass to reach a big roof. Clip a fixed pin in the crack below this roof, traverse right across a slab with a bolt and belay in a stance below a steep corner. (5.9-)

Pitch 4. Go up the dihedral above the belay. Lieback or face climb past the crux bulge to reach a knob. Continue up this corner past another small roof to a belay with 2 bolts and a fixed pin. Note that this belay is actually above the second roof, so a little higher than where shown in both guides. Quality (5.10)

Pitch 5. About 40' of liebacking up the left-trending hand-crack in the corner off the belay to reach a ledge (5.9). Traverse left on this ledge for 15', and follow a 5.8 offwidth from here to the top and the bolted anchor shared by the 3 main Tooth routes. [Rosul/Dunning says you can stay in the corner instead of traversing left, and that it is "5.9 ugly" with a giant sharp-looking bush looming ahead]

Descent: Rappel Tooth Fairy with 5 rappels with (1) 60 or 70m rope (best), or 3 rappels with double 50m ropes.

Location

This climb seeks out the obvious left-facing dihedral that is located to the right of the clean south-facing slab of the Tooth. The climb begins at the common location shared with Tooth Fairy and TrC, below the triangular roof.

Protection

Recommended 1-2 sets cams, with doubles in the hand sizes. 1 set nuts.

Photos