Avg: 3.8 from 23 votes
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||FA 15 Apr. 1973 5.7 A3 Leland Davis, Reed Cundiff, Cliff Naveaux & Mark Losleben, FFA: Edmund Ward & Karl Kiser, ca. 1979|
|Page Views:||3,891 total · 27/month|
|Shared By:||George Perkins on Feb 11, 2008|
|Admins:||Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
Pitch 1. Climb the thin crack below the triangular roof, clip bolt, and traverse right to a 1-bolt (+your own gear) belay at the corner of the roof. (5.8) This pitch is the same as the start of Tooth Fairy and Tooth or Consequences, and a couple of other variations exist too (a 5.8+ R thin-crack start below the belay, or a 5.10+ face that reaches the same belay from the right side). It's possible to extend this pitch to the 3-bolt anchor at 160' but with bad rope drag.
Pitch 2. Follow the rail to the right, then follow a thin-hands crack up and left. Cruise past a 3-bolt belay for Tooth or Consequences to a 2-bolt anchor by the next small tree (this is where Tooth Fairy moves left across the slab) (5.9-).
Pitch 3. Up the right angling crack filled with yuccas and grass to reach a big roof. Clip a fixed pin in the crack below this roof, traverse right across a slab with a bolt and belay in a stance below a steep corner. (5.9-)
Pitch 4. Go up the dihedral above the belay. Lieback or face climb past the crux bulge to reach a knob. Continue up this corner past another small roof to a belay with 2 bolts and a fixed pin. Note that this belay is actually above the second roof, so a little higher than where shown in both guides. Quality (5.10)
Pitch 5. About 40' of liebacking up the left-trending hand-crack in the corner off the belay to reach a ledge (5.9). Traverse left on this ledge for 15', and follow a 5.8 offwidth from here to the top and the bolted anchor shared by the 3 main Tooth routes. [Rosul/Dunning says you can stay in the corner instead of traversing left, and that it is "5.9 ugly" with a giant sharp-looking bush looming ahead]
Descent: Rappel Tooth Fairy with 5 rappels with (1) 60 or 70m rope (best), or 3 rappels with double 50m ropes.