Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Mark Motes & Karl Kiser, Fall 1984
Page Views: 99 total · 9/month
Shared By: Karl R. Kiser on Jan 22, 2018
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

This climb starts as Incisor but then clips a couple of bolts on a leftward traverse to a thin face/crack to the top. There are additional crux moves up the thin crack.

Location

Start as Incisor but traverse left after the first crux moves to the ledge. Rap the route (2 ropes).

Protection

Trad rack with an emphasis on smaller gear. Shares an anchor with Incisor.

Photos

Karl R. Kiser
  5.10+
Karl R. Kiser  
  5.10+
The climb would definitely get another star with a direct start. One should climb Incisor to the right and access the bolts on Root Canal. The 1/4" bolts are more than 30 years old. Mark Motes finished the pitch, after drilling the bolts on the lead, but didn't clip in at the top. He took a bit of a fall, sprained his ankle and had a long walk out that day. I did carry his pack. Jan 22, 2018
Dan Carter
Las Cruces, NM
Dan Carter   Las Cruces, NM
I've looked at these routes several times. I agree they could be extended or linked above. Thanks adding them Karl. Jan 24, 2018