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Routes in The Tooth

Incisor T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ortho Bullets S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Root Canal T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Snaggle Tooth T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tooth Decay T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tooth Extraction T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tooth Fairy T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tooth or Consequences T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Mark Motes & Karl Kiser, Fall 1984
Page Views: 87 total · 18/month
Shared By: Karl R. Kiser on Jan 22, 2018
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Stephen Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This climb starts as Incisor but then clips a couple of bolts on a leftward traverse to a thin face/crack to the top. There are additional crux moves up the thin crack.

Location [Suggest Change]

Start as Incisor but traverse left after the first crux moves to the ledge. Rap the route (2 ropes).

Protection [Suggest Change]

Trad rack with an emphasis on smaller gear. Shares an anchor with Incisor.

Photos

The climb would definitely get another star with a direct start. One should climb Incisor to the right and access the bolts on Root Canal. The 1/4" bolts are more than 30 years old. Mark Motes finished the pitch, after drilling the bolts on the lead, but didn't clip in at the top. He took a bit of a fall, sprained his ankle and had a long walk out that day. I did carry his pack. Jan 22, 2018
Dan Carter
Las Cruces, NM
Dan Carter   Las Cruces, NM
I've looked at these routes several times. I agree they could be extended or linked above. Thanks adding them Karl. Jan 24, 2018

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