Avg: 3.9 from 19 votes
|Type:||Trad, 550 ft (167 m), 4 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Mark Motes, Paul Horak and Glen Banks ca. 1979|
|Page Views:||9,823 total · 58/month|
|Shared By:||Aaron Hobson on May 21, 2007|
|Admins:||Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
The second pitch is the best known, and perhaps most feared. Rising off to the left is 100 ft of 5.10 slab with only four bolts for protection (a piton helps protect the traverse over to the bolts). The old 1/4" bolts are still there, but someone has been kind enough to add a second newer 3/8" bolt next to each old bolt making the climb all that much safer. Still this pitch is quite memorable, with perfect rock and exposure. Belay at a small stance on the arete with more great exposure.
The third pitch continues up the arete on the right side for 60ft until a small overlap above a large block is reached. A difficult and committing 5.9+ mantle gains a small stance next to a bolt. From here the climb moves over to the left side of the arete and up a small dihedral where a committing traverse move to the right is required to gain a bolted belay stance on the arete.
The last two pitches can be combined, although it may involve having some rope-drag. From the belay, climb past a bolt to the left (5.9 slab) then veer up and right under a large protruding block. Clip a bolt under the right side of the block, and fire up the thin crack/corner (5.9). If rope-drag is an issue, belay at the top of this block, otherwise take your pick of two cracks to ascend the final 50 ft. The left-hand crack is easier (5.7) but also slightly dirty. A hand/fist crack which diagonals sharply to the right goes at 5.9.