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Routes in The Tooth

Incisor T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ortho Bullets S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Root Canal T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Snaggle Tooth T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tooth Decay T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tooth Extraction T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tooth Fairy T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tooth or Consequences T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Paul Horak & Mark Dalen 1976
Page Views: 107 total · 15/month
Shared By: Karl R. Kiser on Jan 22, 2018
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

Find a small right facing corner, climb up and make a crux move to a ledge (a bolt here, one old and one new), face climb up to a wider right facing dihedral (may require cleaning with a nut tool) and finish out a bit left to the anchor on a good ledge.

Location

The route is on the extreme right side of the Tooth but still on the west side. Rap the route (2 ropes).

Protection

Standard trad rack with cams up to three inches. There is a bolted anchor at top (but the 1/4 " bolts are more than 30 years old if not upgraded).

Photos

Karl R. Kiser
  5.10-
Karl R. Kiser  
  5.10-
This pitch would make an excellent start to another route on the right side of the Tooth. Paul Horak, on FA, slipped on dirt within the wide crack and took a long fall here. Mark Dalen finished the pitch. Jan 22, 2018
Mark Dalen
Albuquerque, NM
Mark Dalen   Albuquerque, NM
Nice addition ... rating seems about right but it is a burly pitch, dirt or no ... Jan 22, 2018

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