Elevation: 7,703 ft
GPS: 32.349, -106.571 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Mar 5, 2006 with improvements by George Perkins
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

One of the gems of the Organs, the tooth is home to some of the best routes found anywhere in the Organs. From the dripping springs area it is easily discernable as a beautifully clean looking wall just below "The Wedge", a large triangular shaped peak.

This is one of the few Organ walls featured in Dennis Jacksons "Climbing New Mexico". The Rosul-Dunning guide lists routes on the wall but adds this comment: "Many unreported climbs here". The listed climbs are all up the smooth faces on the west facing wall. And many variations can be done linking pitches on these climbs.

The wall is nicely shaded in the morning, and many of the routes remain shaded through-out the day, making them good destinations even during the hotter months.

Getting There

The approach is rather straightforward although more than one party has gotten lost and spent the day bushwhacking up thorny ravines. About 1/2 mile north on Baylor canyon Rd (from Dripping Springs rd) is a dirt rd on the right called Modoc Mine Rd (no sign). This is a very rough mining rd, go up it as far as you dare and park at one of the many pull-offs. Continue on ft up the rest of the road. You will pass by the tailings of Modoc Mine and the road takes you south over a few ridges before finally dying at a small clearing on the top of a ridge. From here there is a faint climbers trail heading directly uphill. The trail is marked by cairns and is actually fairly easy to follow. It passes a gorge before ascending directly to the Tooth. Scope out your route before you get to the base of the cliff, as it is difficult to see the routes from the base.

From the start of the climber's trail, the approach is around an hour. Hiking up Modoc Mine Rd may take you another 30min-hour.

8 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Tooth

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 19
Tooth or Consequences
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 29
Tooth Fairy
Trad 4 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 23
Tooth Extraction
Trad 5 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 3
Tooth Decay
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Tooth or Consequences
 19
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Tooth Fairy
 29
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Tooth Extraction
 23
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 5 pitches
Tooth Decay
 3
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in The Tooth »

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