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The Tooth Rock Climbing
Routes in The Tooth
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Incisor T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ortho Bullets S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Root Canal T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Snaggle Tooth T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tooth Decay T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Tooth Extraction T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tooth Fairy T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Tooth or Consequences T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Elevation: | 7,703 ft | 2,348 m |
| GPS: |
32.3491, -106.5713 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 28,694 total · 126/month | |
| Shared By: | Aaron Hobson on Mar 5, 2006 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Description
One of the gems of the Organs, the tooth is home to some of the best routes found anywhere in the Organs. From the dripping springs area it is easily discernable as a beautifully clean looking wall just below "The Wedge", a large triangular shaped peak.
This is one of the few Organ walls featured in Dennis Jacksons "Climbing New Mexico". The Rosul-Dunning guide lists routes on the wall but adds this comment: "Many unreported climbs here". The listed climbs are all up the smooth faces on the west facing wall. And many variations can be done linking pitches on these climbs.
The wall is nicely shaded in the morning, and many of the routes remain shaded through-out the day, making them good destinations even during the hotter months.
This is one of the few Organ walls featured in Dennis Jacksons "Climbing New Mexico". The Rosul-Dunning guide lists routes on the wall but adds this comment: "Many unreported climbs here". The listed climbs are all up the smooth faces on the west facing wall. And many variations can be done linking pitches on these climbs.
The wall is nicely shaded in the morning, and many of the routes remain shaded through-out the day, making them good destinations even during the hotter months.
Getting There
The approach is rather straightforward although more than one party has gotten lost and spent the day bushwhacking up thorny ravines. About 1/2 mile north on Baylor canyon Rd (from Dripping Springs rd) is a dirt rd on the right called Modoc Mine Rd (no sign). This is a very rough mining rd, go up it as far as you dare and park at one of the many pull-offs. Continue on ft up the rest of the road. You will pass by the tailings of Modoc Mine and the road takes you south over a few ridges before finally dying at a small clearing on the top of a ridge. From here there is a faint climbers trail heading directly uphill. The trail is marked by cairns and is actually fairly easy to follow. It passes a gorge before ascending directly to the Tooth. Scope out your route before you get to the base of the cliff, as it is difficult to see the routes from the base.
From the start of the climber's trail, the approach is around an hour. Hiking up Modoc Mine Rd may take you another 30min-hour.
From the start of the climber's trail, the approach is around an hour. Hiking up Modoc Mine Rd may take you another 30min-hour.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Tooth
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
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Guidebooks (6)
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