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Tooth:  T or C, Glen Banks on FA
ID 107660102 ·

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  5.0 from 16 votes

Karl R. Kiser
Jun 16, 2012
Tooth: T or C, Glen Banks on FA  
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
I've been on TrC 3 times, and each time was always very impressed with the idea that the FA team had "just gone for it" out onto that beautiful blank-looking slab and put the 4 bolts in on lead from stances on what is perhaps the most notorious pitch in the Organs. Can't say I blame them, but it's interesting to see that the FA team used a different (less insane, smarter) strategy to get past this intimidating pitch-- toproping much of the pitch, but with increasingly big swing potential, off gear from the Tooth Fairy crack. Thanks for posting it, Karl.

To Benjamin and Jay's comments: It isn't a traverse, but a rising, angling leftward face climb (check out the other photos). With more bolts now below the one shown being put in in the photo (the 4th? bolt), a nasty swing is no longer a concern, though there is still enough space between them to make for a memorable experience [and to have you being so relieved every time you get to a bolt!] Oct 21, 2015
Stu Ritchie
Stu Ritchie   Denver
George, I would say that there is still significant 'swing' potential getting to the first bolt as well as ample opportunities for a good 'skid' further up. Oct 31, 2016
Mark Dalen
Albuquerque, NM
Mark Dalen   Albuquerque, NM
Glen was (is) a beast ... Aug 19, 2017

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