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Routes in Gertch

Gertch's Folly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Psycho T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Elevation: 7,642 ft
GPS: 32.361, -106.579 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 3,813 total · 28/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Oct 26, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
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Description

Named after a miner who met his demise here, Gertch isn't really a peak, but it offers a huge face with many possibilities. The normal route up Gertch is considered an Organ Mtns classic, and is well worth the effort you will expend to just get to this remote cliff.
Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Getting There

Identify Gertch by first locating the Rabbit Ear's Massif and the low horns (refer to Ingraham's guide http://web.nmsu.edu/~amato/ingrahamguide/. The large gap between these two peaks is called Big Windy canyon. Gertch is the face on the south side of Big Windy Canyon, a tall un-broken face that leads all the way up to the summit ridge. There isn't really a trail, although you may find a few cairns scattered in logical locations. Mostly you will be traveling over Cat's Claw and Prickly pear vegetation, so long/sturdy pants are a must.

Approach from the Topp Hutt rd. At the Topp Hut, strike out South towards a small hill. Pass this hill on its eastern flank and head towards a slightly larger hill, crossing a few gulches on the way. From the base of this hill, a ridge leads all the way up to the base of Gertch.

Descent can be made by scrambling off the North side of the ridge (4th class) and into Big Windy canyon, where some terrible bushwhacking will get you back to the base of the mountain. Alternatively, you can head back towards the Low horns and scramble down a gully to the South. Two rappels at the bottom of this gully will land you back at the base of Gertch, but not without its fair share of bushwhacking.

2 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Gertch

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gertch's Folly
Trad 7 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Gertch's Folly 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 7 pitches
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Bill Lawry
New Mexico
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
As Karl Kiser said, the rap bolts on the South Descent need replacement. As of 1 Nov 2013, the first rap anchor consists of two rusty 1/4 inch bolts (with chains) that are challenging to back up; the second rap consists of a single 3/8 inch (?) bolt which is also challenging to back up. We did the raps with a single 70 meter rope but believe a single 60 meter rope would be just fine. Also, be mentally prepared for a lot of relatively non-thorny bushwhacking above the raps: . Nov 2, 2013
The south descent was the most common. I expect the rap bolts need replacement. Apr 2, 2008

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