Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: 2 Oct 1971 5.9 A3 Leland Davis & Mike McGoey FFA Paul Horak & Glen Banks ca. 1975
Page Views: 1,195 total · 11/month
Shared By: Karl R. Kiser on Mar 13, 2012 · Updates
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Power drilling is prohibited in the Organ Mountains Wilderness. Details
Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico State Requirements Details

Description

P1 (5.10): follow a crack to the prominent right facing dihedral, climb right and continue up the dihedral. Traverse right on face holds to bolted belay.

P2 (5.10): this is the crux pitch. Face climb to the corner and climb a moderate length pitch to another bolted belay. A party could rap to the ground from this belay with two ropes (a good option as the first two pitches are far better than the last two pitches).

P3 (5.9): continue up the weakness, climb over a small roof with a bolt and come to another bolted belay.

P4 (5.7): follow common Organ Mountain face and disjointed cracks to the top of the rap gully. Walk up and right (south) to the top of the first rap.

Location

The route is on the south side of Gertch in the regular rap gully. Locate the prominent left to right trending right facing dihedral, this is the climb. The first pitch is a short rather nondescript crack system to gain the corner. Descent is by the Gertch's Folly rap route.

Protection

Standard trad rack with one 3 1/2 Camalot useful. Several of the belays have bolts (probably better to take a few new bolts and add, existing bolts are about 40 years old). Here is an update for pitches 1 & 2 (the best pitches):

"Rebolting the protection bolt on P2 is not necessary. P1 and P2 anchors are each composed of several rusted leapers and one modern bolt. They could be rebolted someday, but felt safe for rapping as of 2.19.18."

Photos