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Routes in Gertch

Gertch's Folly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Psycho T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: 2 Oct 1971 5.9 A3 Leland Davis & Mike McGoey FFA Paul Horak & Glen Banks ca. 1975
Page Views: 758 total · 10/month
Shared By: Karl R. Kiser on Mar 13, 2012 with updates from meghan c.
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

P1 (5.10): follow a crack to the prominent right facing dihedral, climb right and continue up the dihedral. Traverse right on face holds to bolted belay.

P2 (5.10): this is the crux pitch. Face climb to the corner and climb a moderate length pitch to another bolted belay. A party could rap to the ground from this belay with two ropes (a good option as the first two pitches are far better than the last two pitches).

P3 (5.9): continue up the weakness, climb over a small roof with a bolt and come to another bolted belay.

P4 (5.7): follow common Organ Mountain face and disjointed cracks to the top of the rap gully. Walk up and right (south) to the top of the first rap.

Location

The route is on the south side of Gertch in the regular rap gully. Locate the prominent left to right trending right facing dihedral, this is the climb. The first pitch is a short rather nondescript crack system to gain the corner. Descent is by the Gertch's Folly rap route.

Protection

Standard trad rack with one 3 1/2 Camalot useful. Several of the belays have bolts (probably better to take a few new bolts and add, existing bolts are about 40 years old). Here is an update for pitches 1 & 2 (the best pitches):

"Rebolting the protection bolt on P2 is not necessary. P1 and P2 anchors are each composed of several rusted leapers and one modern bolt. They could be rebolted someday, but felt safe for rapping as of 2.19.18."
Nathan Fry
Intervale, NH
Nathan Fry   Intervale, NH
Gave Psycho a try today ... it's stout for sure. I would guess 5.10c at the hardest sections, but sustained .10 throughout the first and second pitch. We aided some sections, but look forward to returning and working through the first two pitches free. As a note, there is one new bolt on each of the first two rappel stations to back up the two old 1/4" bolts. There is also lots of swallow poop and some extensive sections of rotten rock. Check the beta photos for some updated route pictures.

In regards to pro, I recommend hand, fist, and larger cams - BD C4 #1, #2, #3 in doubles. The crack will accept up to C4 #5 in some areas. Jul 4, 2012
Nathan Fry
Intervale, NH
Nathan Fry   Intervale, NH
Update on Psycho - the first pitch went free yesterday and clocks in at about 5.10b, but very sustained. The second pitch is still kicking me in the teeth, probably about 5.10c at the first crux and possibly a bit harder at the second crux. It is also pretty sustained. We cleaned a lot of rotten rock and bird poop from the crack and plan to replace the first anchor and one bolt on the second pitch the next time we go up. The second pitch anchor is bolted but is probably done best as a gear anchor, as the bolts are in a terrible position. We may relocate and replace them, solely for the sake of rappelling down. The upper pitches look cool, but we don't plan to climb them until the first two pitches go free. In summary, Psycho is a quality route that, with a bit of cleaning, will be a great addition to Gertch. I will post a topo at some point. Oct 21, 2012
Brandon Gottung
Moab, UT
  5.10+
Brandon Gottung   Moab, UT
  5.10+
Climbed the first two pitches today in 30 MPH winds and we had a blast. Pitch one is an amazing pitch of high-quality crack climbing and pitch two is sustained with many thought-provoking cruxes. We didn't want to risk getting our ropes caught (due to winds) or losing daylight dealing with the 40 year old bolts above so unfortunately we did not finish (but we did free up to there). I'd recommend a double set of cams tight fingers to wide hands with a four inch and optional 5 inch cam. Double ropes allowed us to get straight to the ground with one rap. Thanks Nathan for updating the first two anchors! As for the lead bolt on pitch 2, I had no desire to even clip it (there are options for gear) so no need to really replace it.

Definitely a great physical route with ample gear - get on it! Feb 19, 2018

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