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Routes in Lambda

Bastard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dyslexic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fun and Games T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
If I Only T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lions and Tigers and Bears T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Munckinland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Not in Kansas T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slipper T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Tin Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
We Are Off T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wizard of Ooze T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yellow Brick Road T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Description

This formation lies across the canyon from The Citadel. Several routes are located on the south and west faces and are described in a topo published in an old Rock&Ice. The relatively easy approach and descent make it a good destination for a relaxing daytrip.

Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Getting There

Approach via the Topp Hut road and the trail which leads into Rabbit Ears Canyon (see The Citadel for details). It is easy to spot the wall and the routes on the South Face from the approach trail. The trail forks just before reaching the bottom of the canyon. Take the left (straight) fork (if you do notice the other taking off sharply to the right). Once on a boulder field, look for a cairn on the other side. From the bottom of the canyon, go up next to a large rock shown in the photo.

The trail is marked with cairns and somewhat used. It first traverses left, then goes up a rocky ridge, traverses left again, goes up a gully, and traverses left once more before the final upward push through the trees to the base of the, dihedral which leads to the Wizard pinnacle.

Expect 1-2hrs for the approach depending on how far along the Topp Hut road you can drive.

The descent from all routes is via a gully on the south side of the formation. From the top where the routes (Yellow Brick Road, Wizard of Ooze, and West Face) converge, traverse though a dead tree, past two live trees, and downclimb a corner to the base of it where the rap chains are located. It takes only a single rappel if you have two 60m ropes. But there are three 2-bolt rappel stations 85', 70' and 50' apart. Two single-rope rappels suffice (skipping the last station, which is not in a good condition) to get to some lower angled rock, where one can carefully scramble down to the base (4th class). When scrambling, head almost as much to the right as down until you reach the right end of the scooped out area, then go down. Once off the steep rock, you can traverse back to the start of the dihedral under the Wizard.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lambda

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Face
Trad 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
We Are Off
Trad 3 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yellow Brick Road
Trad 3 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Not in Kansas
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fun and Games
Trad 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
West Face 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
We Are Off 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Yellow Brick Road 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Not in Kansas 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Fun and Games 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
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Bill Lawry
New Mexico
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
We made our way out to Lambda Wall yesterday. Thank you much to all who put time in on making it clear how to get out there - saves a ton of nasty bushwhacking! I think our return time back to the car near Baylor Road was around an hour. Nov 10, 2014

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