Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 146 total · 5/month
Shared By: Marta Reece on Jun 30, 2016
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

Pitches 1 and 3 are excellent.

Pitch 1 (150 feet, 5.7) goes up right-facing corner in the middle of the basically smooth north face of Lambda. It's the corner which ends about half way up the face. Belay can be set up after getting up the nice undercling, when the corner heads left again.

Pitch 2 (160 feet, 5.4 to 5.7 depending on variation) (1) You can continue following the corner up to the head wall, less clean at this point. (2) Clean rock is to be had just a few feet to the left of it, not completely protectable, but fun. Either way, you then walk left under the head wall to a small bush at the bottom of a clean corner. (3) The easiest, and dirtiest, alternative is to take the ramp which splits off the corner to the left shortly after the start of the pitch also goes all the way to the bush. The climbing here consists of occasional steps up. All variations converge on the same cacti just before the bush.

Pitch 3 (100 feet, 5.7) goes up the first, relatively shallow corner. (There are two more, deeper ones, to the left of it.) Protection is adequate, much better than it appears. The climbing is clean and fun. Belay from the top of the ridge.

Alternative Pitch 3: Go left from Pitch-2 belay. Connect trivially to Pitch 3 of Slipper.

Location

In the middle of north face of Lambda. Start up the black streak, as shown in photo.

To get down, scramble to the south to a broad, vegetated ledge. Go west along the ledge to the normal approach to the rap line on Not in Kansas. (This will include short scramble down to the bolts.)

Protection

We had a double rack and used it for the most part in smaller sizes. There is one piton on Pitch 3. #4 Camalot was useful at top of Pitch 3.

Photos

Ian Harris
Las Cruces NM
  5.7
Ian Harris   Las Cruces NM
  5.7
This route is a great route to do in the summer as it's in the shade for a good portion of the day. The 1st and 3rd pitches are on good rock with fun moves, making the route well worth it. Jun 30, 2016