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Routes in Lambda
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Bastard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dyslexic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fun and Games T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Glenda the Good Route T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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If I Only T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Lions and Tigers and Bears T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Munckinland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Not in Kansas T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Slipper T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Tin Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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We Are Off T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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We Are off Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Face T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wicked West T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Wizard of Ooze T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Yellow Brick Road T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 697 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Marta Reece on Aug 22, 2018 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
This is a stellar route on clean rock, without those sections of choss or easy/dirty gully which plague other routes in vicinity. It is heady but well worth it
Pitch 1, 5.8, 100 ft
Start along a thin crack system. At the top of it, go left, up a couple of large steps, then right past an old quarter inch bolt to a flake - a precariously thin one at the bottom but solid on top - which will take you to the right. Above that is a nice grassy ledge for a belay.
Pitch 2, 5.7, PG 13, 200 ft
Go around the tree on the left (that and the agave plant right after it are the only real vegetation on the route). Continue up in the direction of a bush (which you will not reach). This will take you into a large left facing corner. We stayed in the corner only about half the time, deviating to the left along a pair of seams, then going up to the corner proper, up it a bit past a piton, finally to the left again along another seam to an arete. From there take the left face for a short stretch and step left toward the off-width (it takes #4). Go left about 10 ft under a mini-headwall, then up it. Another 30 feet or so will take you to a nice horizontal crack with a gently sloping slab below it for a comfortable belay.
Pitch 3, 5.8, 100 ft
This pitch is shared with Dyslexic. Go up on the right side of the small triangular roof/boulder, traverse on it left into the prominent right facing corner and go up it the rest of the way. The crux, at a boulder-like projection into the corner, is protected with 0.1 cam, 0.2 at most and is somewhat height dependent.
Pitch 1, 5.8, 100 ft
Start along a thin crack system. At the top of it, go left, up a couple of large steps, then right past an old quarter inch bolt to a flake - a precariously thin one at the bottom but solid on top - which will take you to the right. Above that is a nice grassy ledge for a belay.
Pitch 2, 5.7, PG 13, 200 ft
Go around the tree on the left (that and the agave plant right after it are the only real vegetation on the route). Continue up in the direction of a bush (which you will not reach). This will take you into a large left facing corner. We stayed in the corner only about half the time, deviating to the left along a pair of seams, then going up to the corner proper, up it a bit past a piton, finally to the left again along another seam to an arete. From there take the left face for a short stretch and step left toward the off-width (it takes #4). Go left about 10 ft under a mini-headwall, then up it. Another 30 feet or so will take you to a nice horizontal crack with a gently sloping slab below it for a comfortable belay.
Pitch 3, 5.8, 100 ft
This pitch is shared with Dyslexic. Go up on the right side of the small triangular roof/boulder, traverse on it left into the prominent right facing corner and go up it the rest of the way. The crux, at a boulder-like projection into the corner, is protected with 0.1 cam, 0.2 at most and is somewhat height dependent.
Location
Start about 30 ft left of the beginning of West Face. Walk off the top to the east to reach the standard Lambda rap line.
Protection
We had double rack for all but the most extreme of sizes. Useful sizes were all the way from 0.1 to #4. The detour from corner on Pitch 2, the most runout sections, was protected by a brown tricam is a pocket which would not take anything else. There is one quarter-inch bolt in a critical location on Pitch 1 and a piton or two on Pitch 2.
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