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Routes in Lambda

Bastard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dyslexic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fun and Games T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Glenda the Good Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
If I Only T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lions and Tigers and Bears T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Munckinland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Not in Kansas T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slipper T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Tin Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
We Are Off T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wicked West T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Wizard of Ooze T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yellow Brick Road T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 500 ft, 3 pitches
FA: First known ascent: Marc Tarnosky, Marta Reece, August 16, 2016
Page Views: 171 total · 7/month
Shared By: Marta Reece on Aug 16, 2016
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

Dyslexic goes up the long deep gash which marks the left side of west face of Lambda, the one which forms the long arm of the letter Lambda, actually the mirror image of Greek lowercase Lambda or a dyslexic version of same.

Pitch 1 (5.7, 190 ft) Start on the slabby apron and go into the corner. Traverse right only minimally and only at the start. (Going on the bulges to the right is possible but much less protectable and occasionally a bit harder.)

Pitch 2 (5.6, 180 ft) First half of the pitch is on the bulges (the gully turns dirtier here) and gets really east toward the end. Go back to the corner again after the easy part, but stay on the face, first just right of the corner, but soon in a short left-facing corner, then continuing up in the same direction past a mini-tree to a comfortable belay ledge.

Pitch 3 (5.8, 100 ft) Go back in the corner again, past a step and a nasty looking yucca plant (no problem). The crux is the steep section. Protection is by small pieces, but it is available. Once above that, there is more face climbing on the right to the top.

Location

Going up the prominent right-facing corner on the left end of the west face of Lambda.

Rappel down on the south side by the standard Not in Kansas rap line.

Protection

Double cams up to #3 is what we used. Nuts and such, or course, as well.
Ian Harris
Las Cruces NM
  5.8
Ian Harris   Las Cruces NM
  5.8
I climbed a variation of Pitch 2 by climbing the bulge directly right of the leftmost crack. The crux pitch is a nice challenge; about 5.8 I'd say. Thin crack I protected with a .1 BD Cam and a brass micro-nut. Aug 24, 2016
Jeff Erwin
Las Cruces, NM
 
Jeff Erwin   Las Cruces, NM
 
Crux is thoughtful and takes a #3 below the actual moves to help back up the black alien (or.1 as Ian noted) that just fits to protect the crux moves.

This was a good rout for an early summer morning as we found shade the whole climb.


I also feel like there are some options around this climb to bump it up a grade or two if someone were to make a couple summer morning project days. Jun 28, 2018

More About Dyslexic

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