Type: Trad, 500 ft, 3 pitches
FA: First known ascent: Marc Tarnosky, Marta Reece, August 16, 2016
Page Views: 297 total · 7/month
Shared By: Marta Reece on Aug 16, 2016
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Power drilling is prohibited in the Organ Mountains Wilderness. Details

Description

Dyslexic goes up the long deep gash which marks the left side of west face of Lambda, the one which forms the long arm of the letter Lambda, actually the mirror image of Greek lowercase Lambda or a dyslexic version of same.

Pitch 1 (5.7, 190 ft) Start on the slabby apron and go into the corner. Traverse right only minimally and only at the start. (Going on the bulges to the right is possible but much less protectable and occasionally a bit harder.)

Pitch 2 (5.6, 180 ft) First half of the pitch is on the bulges (the gully turns dirtier here) and gets really east toward the end. Go back to the corner again after the easy part, but stay on the face, first just right of the corner, but soon in a short left-facing corner, then continuing up in the same direction past a mini-tree to a comfortable belay ledge.

Pitch 3 (5.8, 100 ft) Go back in the corner again, past a step and a nasty looking yucca plant (no problem). The crux is the steep section. Protection is by small pieces, but it is available. Once above that, there is more face climbing on the right to the top.

Location

Going up the prominent right-facing corner on the left end of the west face of Lambda.

Rappel down on the south side by the standard Not in Kansas rap line.

Protection

Double cams up to #3 is what we used. Nuts and such, or course, as well.

Photos