Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 707 total · 4/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Aug 15, 2006
Admins: Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski, Jason Halladay

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Power drilling is prohibited in the Organ Mountains Wilderness. Details

Description

A nice line up the South face but maybe a bit more exciting than one would expect. The Rock&Ice topo calls it "sandbagged", and indeed, 5.7 route-finding may be tricky.

The first pitch climbs a direct line up the east side of The Wizard, a pinnacle-like formation mid-way up the wall. A piton down low adjacent points you in the right direction. A good belay stance is found at the top of the Wizard.

The second pitch traverses out right towards a lone 1/4" bolt. A few variations exist here, but generally, one works up from this point and then traverses back over to the left to a belay stance below a large cleft in the roof above. If you end up too high, you can traverse left directly under this roof with good pro and make an airy turn around a corner (5.9) to get into the corner system which leads to the top.

The last pitch works up the wide corner system to the summit.

Location

Locate this route by finding "the wizard", a pinnacle like formation midway up the wall. The descent is found by scrambling east on the south side of the summit and looking for a deep gully where rap-anchors are easily visible. Anchors are a mixture of bolts/chains/webbing of mixed vintage, but generally ok.

Protection

Ample placements exist on the 1st and 3rd pitches. the second pitch is a bit trickier depending on how you traverse and where you end up for the belay. Directly under the roof is an interesting low-density crust over the granite, which makes for easy, but tenous climbing, because it doesn't feel very solid.

Photos