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Routes in Lambda

Bastard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dyslexic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fun and Games T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glenda the Good Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
If I Only T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lions and Tigers and Bears T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Munckinland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Not in Kansas T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slipper T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Tin Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
We Are Off T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wizard of Ooze T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yellow Brick Road T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 530 total · 4/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Aug 15, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

A nice line up the South face but maybe a bit more exciting than one would expect. The Rock&Ice topo calls it "sandbagged", and indeed, 5.7 route-finding may be tricky.

The first pitch climbs a direct line up the east side of The Wizard, a pinnacle-like formation mid-way up the wall. A piton down low adjacent points you in the right direction. A good belay stance is found at the top of the Wizard.

The second pitch traverses out right towards a lone 1/4" bolt. A few variations exist here, but generally, one works up from this point and then traverses back over to the left to a belay stance below a large cleft in the roof above. If you end up too high, you can traverse left directly under this roof with good pro and make an airy turn around a corner (5.9) to get into the corner system which leads to the top.

The last pitch works up the wide corner system to the summit.

Location

Locate this route by finding "the wizard", a pinnacle like formation midway up the wall. The descent is found by scrambling east on the south side of the summit and looking for a deep gully where rap-anchors are easily visible. Anchors are a mixture of bolts/chains/webbing of mixed vintage, but generally ok.

Protection

Ample placements exist on the 1st and 3rd pitches. the second pitch is a bit trickier depending on how you traverse and where you end up for the belay. Directly under the roof is an interesting low-density crust over the granite, which makes for easy, but tenous climbing, because it doesn't feel very solid.

Photos

Bill Lawry
New Mexico
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
I believe the 1/4 inch bolt has been upgraded - nice work! Nov 10, 2014
Marta Reece
Las Cruces, NM
  5.8
Marta Reece   Las Cruces, NM  
  5.8
The thirds pitch is on some of the chossiest rock I have seen anywhere in the Organs and I would avoid it. However, a three-star climb can be made by linking the Wizard of Ooz (up to the 1.4 inch bolt) and Yellow Brick Road. See my comment under Yellow Brick Road. Jul 28, 2013
Ian Harris
Las Cruces NM
  5.8
Ian Harris   Las Cruces NM
  5.8
Fun route. On the second pitch, protection was interesting up to the bolt. After the bolt I went slightly right finding solid holds, then up to a small ledge with a cactus on it. I then traversed straight left. Pro here is somewhat spaced out depending on how high you go before traversing. There are some loose blocks and flakes on this traverse so tread lightly. I belayed from a nice finger up to hand sized crack right under the roof and before the airy turn around the corner. Overall I climbed a huge backward C on this pitch. Dec 19, 2012

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