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Routes in Lambda

Bastard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dyslexic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fun and Games T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glenda the Good Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
If I Only T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lions and Tigers and Bears T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Munckinland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Not in Kansas T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slipper T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Tin Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
We Are Off T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wizard of Ooze T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yellow Brick Road T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 225 total · 4/month
Shared By: Marta Reece on Jan 15, 2014
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

The route goes up the left-most crack system on the south facing wall. The crux is the first technical move, going past a slightly overhanging band. It is protectable, though. Above that, the climbing is awkward for a bit, then fairly straightforward. Belay from the small tree you come to just as you get to the west facing side. This is the same "small tree" as on the West Face of Lambda Wall. You can rap from here or continue up West Face.

Location

Toward the left end of south face of Lambda Wall. Go left on the ledge at the base of Wizard of Ooze. (The nice ledge with a tree on it to shade waiting dogs.) Continue left along the cliff little past the step up.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

This route must be close to the old Farewell to Arms (I haven't done it). And I heard that Farewell to Arms had a variation which linked to Wizard of Ooze (less than good pro?). Jul 5, 2016
Marta Reece
Las Cruces, NM
 
Marta Reece   Las Cruces, NM  
 
This route was originally posted under the name "Bastard," which we took from an old topo of the Lambda Wall. After discussion with some of the people who climbed the real Bastard back in the day, it was clear that this line is not the same, and therefore in need of a new name. The real Bastard will join it in time. Sorry about the confusion. Jan 22, 2014

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