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Routes in Lambda

Bastard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dyslexic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fun and Games T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glenda the Good Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
If I Only T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lions and Tigers and Bears T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Munckinland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Not in Kansas T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slipper T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Tin Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
We Are Off T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Face T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wicked West T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Wizard of Ooze T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yellow Brick Road T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 241 total · 9/month
Shared By: Karl R. Kiser on Jul 5, 2016
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

P1: 5.9+ Go up the protectable crack (difficult moves near the ground) and continue up the crack to a nice ledge in the middle of the west fact to the right of a tree.

P2: 5.8 This is the second pitch of the Bastard route. There may be a fixed pin on the face a bit up from the belay. Trend left after about 50 feet to the base of the Oven.

P3: 5.10a This crux pitch goes out the crack in the back of the oven with good pro. Continue up and join the belay for the last pitch of the West Face route.

P4: 5.7 Finish the climb on the last pitch of the West Face route.

Location

The route starts left of the Wizard and right of a tree in a crack next to some triangular rock. Finish the climb and continue to the usual raps. The idea of the climb was to combine some of the better pitches on the south and west faces of Lambda Wall. I did the FA on the harder pitches (one and three), on different days, but never combined the four noted in the description. I do want the climb to be done by others.

Protection

Standard Organ trad rack.

Photos

Brandon Gottung
Moab, UT
  5.10c
Brandon Gottung   Moab, UT
  5.10c
Great route with enough variety to demand a well-rounded skill set. P1 is good and dead vertical but a little loose, just needs some more traffic to clean it up. The pin still exists on P2 and luckily it can be backed up with a micro cam or small wire. P3 is quite intimidating once you get under it - those 10 feet of hard climbing pack a punch; a bizarre physical sequence awaits - get on it! Mar 6, 2018
Karl R. Kiser
  5.10a
Karl R. Kiser  
  5.10a
Rate pitch three. It is some sort of 5.10 but I climbed it around 35 years ago and can't really remember. Mar 6, 2018
Jeff Erwin
Las Cruces, NM
Jeff Erwin   Las Cruces, NM
Does anyone know how much sun this rout gets? Summer rout winter rout etc? Jul 3, 2018

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