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Routes in Lambda

Bastard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dyslexic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fun and Games T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glenda the Good Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
If I Only T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lions and Tigers and Bears T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Munckinland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Not in Kansas T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slipper T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Tin Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
We Are Off T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wizard of Ooze T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yellow Brick Road T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Dan Carter and Josh Hamling, 2016
Page Views: 189 total · 27/month
Shared By: Dan Carter on Jan 20, 2018
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

P1: The route begins on "the Wizard" pinnacle near the east side and goes through several crack systems including a set of parallel cracks. Near the top of the pinnacle, go right to avoid a steep and unprotectable corner, and end up at a bolted belay.

P2: Left of the belay and down a small gully is the start of the second pitch. The pitch goes up the right crack. It's as good as it looks! There is a bolt at the start to protect the first move. The rest of the route protects well with trad gear. This second pitch is the crux and has several long, hard moves.

P3: The crack of P2 will top out on a slab near the west ridge. Traverse the west side of Lamba wall to join up with the West Face route around P3 or P4. Continue on the West Face route to the top. There appears to be more direct options for this pitch but the cracks are wide and protection is uncertain. Let me know if anyone tries a more direct finish.

P4: Follow the West Face route

Location

This route is between Lions and Tigers and Bears and the Wizard of Ooze (I think). The start is near the east side of the Wizard pinnacle.

Protection

Nuts and double rack of cams will be plenty. Long slings are good for the traverse and West Face.

Photos

Brandon Gottung
Moab, UT
  5.10a
Brandon Gottung   Moab, UT
  5.10a
Fun route. We straightened out the line by climbing pitch three on the right of the arete. It was good, clean, 5.5 and protected well. If Lions and Tigers and Bears next door is 10a, this one is a touch easier ;) Mar 6, 2018
There are three finishes out of the Oven (the block feature): 1) go left, this is the West Face exit; 2) go straight up, this is the 5.10 pitch (p3) on Lions, Tigers and Bears; 3) go right, 5.9 (some wider gear) and join the West Face again. Mar 6, 2018

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