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Glenda the Good Route
5.10b/c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.6 from 10
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Routes in Lambda
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Bastard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dyslexic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fun and Games T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Glenda the Good Route T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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If I Only T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Lions and Tigers and Bears T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Munckinland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Not in Kansas T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Slipper T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Tin Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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We Are Off T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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We Are off Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Face T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wicked West T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Wizard of Ooze T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Yellow Brick Road T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Dan Carter and Josh Hamling, 2016 |
| Page Views: | 1,286 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Dan Carter on Jan 20, 2018 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
P1: The route begins on "the Wizard" pinnacle near the east side and goes through several crack systems including a set of parallel cracks. Near the top of the pinnacle, go right to avoid a steep and unprotectable corner, and end up at a bolted belay.
P2: Left of the belay and down a small gully is the start of the second pitch. The pitch goes up the right crack. It's as good as it looks! There is a bolt at the start to protect the first move. The rest of the route protects well with trad gear. This second pitch is the crux and has several long, hard moves.
P3: The crack of P2 will top out on a slab near the west ridge. Traverse the west side of Lamba wall to join up with the West Face route around P3 or P4. Continue on the West Face route to the top. There appears to be more direct options for this pitch but the cracks are wide and protection is uncertain. Let me know if anyone tries a more direct finish.
P4: Follow the West Face route
P2: Left of the belay and down a small gully is the start of the second pitch. The pitch goes up the right crack. It's as good as it looks! There is a bolt at the start to protect the first move. The rest of the route protects well with trad gear. This second pitch is the crux and has several long, hard moves.
P3: The crack of P2 will top out on a slab near the west ridge. Traverse the west side of Lamba wall to join up with the West Face route around P3 or P4. Continue on the West Face route to the top. There appears to be more direct options for this pitch but the cracks are wide and protection is uncertain. Let me know if anyone tries a more direct finish.
P4: Follow the West Face route
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