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Routes in Lambda

Bastard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dyslexic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fun and Games T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
If I Only T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lions and Tigers and Bears T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Munckinland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Not in Kansas T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slipper T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Tin Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
We Are Off T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wizard of Ooze T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yellow Brick Road T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Karl Kiser, Matt Monagle & Cindy Weaver, summer 1982
Page Views: 285 total, 12/month
Shared By: Karl Kiser on Dec 4, 2015
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

(by Marta Reece)

Following Karl Kiser's description, Meghan Curry and I climbed what's now fully described below as Fun and Games. We found it to be an excellent route deserving many repeats.

Pitch 1. (5.6, 120 ft) Start on the right side of the north face just above a large oak tree. Go up a small crack system past a tiny oak tree. Continue up another 20 feet or so and then follow a horizontal crack to the right. Set up a belay on a ledge on the main line of the ridge.

Pitch 2. (5.7+, 80 ft) Go up an easy slab then sharply left along a pair of gently sloping cracks/seams. Step up and continue left and up over slabs with a gradually relaxing angle. Protect in pockets found along the seams. Belay from a wide, grassy ledge above a tree.

Some of the step-ups on Pitch 2 are balancy and a rope drag could be an issue if it were combined with Pitch 1.

Pitch 3. (5.7, 90 ft) Go up a narrow band of easy slab. Shift to the crack on the right to go around a block to a grassy ledge.

Pitch 4. (5.7, 90 ft) Start up the slab (not protectable but short), walk left, take the minimal left-facing corner up a rather chossy slope (also short) to a hand crack. End on a ledge to the left of the tree.

Pitch 5. (5.9, 120 ft) Move up a trough and/or easier ground to the right. Step left and onto a steep slab and up to the left end of the large fin. This takes you into a large dihedral. Stem over grass up this clean feature. Exit to the right onto the face before the large and loose looking chock stones.

Historical Description

The original posting of the route on Mountain Project, as submitted by Karl Kiser

p1: (5.7 ish) follow the weakness straight up and a little right (toward the gully) to a belay below a steep section;

p2: (5.9 ish) climb straight up, step right (the crux) and then up in a generally right facing weakness;

p3: (5.7 ish) just climb up and finish at the top (an unmemorable pitch).

The climb probably hasn't been repeated because it is off the beaten path.

Location

The route is on the finger of rock to the left of the gully which forms the northern boundary of the West Face route.

An easy scramble down the other side and you'll be at the dead tree you pass on your way to the rappel from Yellow Brick Road or West Face. Go east along the ledge, then scramble down to the rap station at the top of Not in Kansas. A single, two-rope rappel followed by a scramble (going somewhat to the west and down) will take you off the rock.

Protection

Standard Organ Trad rack.
Ian Harris
Las Cruces NM
  5.8+
Ian Harris   Las Cruces NM
  5.8+
Following Marta Reece's description above, this a nice route. I am 5' 8" and found the crux move on P5 in the high 5.8 range, although I may have missed a crucial hold. It is well protected however, so go for it! The dihedral above the crux may ease up slightly once cleaned up a bit (small tufts of grass and dirt). Aug 7, 2016
Marta Reece
Las Cruces, NM
  5.8-
Marta Reece   Las Cruces, NM  
  5.8-
Alternative finish to Pitch 5 is to exit the dihedral to the right when less than half way up it. Go right on large cracks, then follow a crack under a roof the rest of the way. More protectable and fun, except for a bush you have to get through at the very top. Aug 6, 2016