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East Slabs Rock Climbing
Routes in East Slabs
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Breathing Sunlight TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dick's Delight T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Great Bowl/Ball Nut Courage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Great Bowl/Ingraham Dihedral, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Jewel, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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La Mancha T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Misty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Normal Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Walking Upright T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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| Elevation: | 6,772 ft | 2,064 m |
| GPS: |
32.3497, -106.5406 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 10,528 total · 52/month | |
| Shared By: | Aaron Hobson on May 2, 2008 | |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Description
An expansive slab of clean granite hides just around the corner from Sugarloaf. It offers climbing similar to the lower pitches of North Face: super clean low-angled granite, chicken heads and quartz dikes, and a few choice dihedrals and overlaps to mix things up. It sees a lot less traffic than Sugarloaf but is well worth the extra approach distance, especially if you like mellow slabs on beautiful rock.
Routes tend to be run-out over the 5.4-5.6 slab sections and it is not unusual for entire pitches to lack protection. Due to the curving angle of the slabs, the upper pitches are not visible from the base of the cliff, nor are they visible from the approach. The slabs extend to the south for over 1/4 mile.
Routes tend to be run-out over the 5.4-5.6 slab sections and it is not unusual for entire pitches to lack protection. Due to the curving angle of the slabs, the upper pitches are not visible from the base of the cliff, nor are they visible from the approach. The slabs extend to the south for over 1/4 mile.
Getting There
While this slab is clearly visible from Hwy 70 and White Sands Missile Range, it is quickly hidden from view while hiking the approach to Sugarloaf along the Indian Hollow trail. Approach almost all the way to Sugarloaf but before you get to the "camping spot" on the trail, start heading left and towards a saddle to the north of Sugarloaf. Scramble over slabs and through oak thickets to gain the saddle where you'll find a huge boulder with a bivouac cave under it. This cave makes a perfect base-camp for spending a weekend on the East Slabs, just don't forget to bring plenty of water.
From the bivuac, scramble south trying to keep your elevation over a series of slabs. Keep going until you reach the north end of the East Slabs in a "great Bowl".
Approach time is 30-60 minutes longer than for Sugarloaf.
From the bivuac, scramble south trying to keep your elevation over a series of slabs. Keep going until you reach the north end of the East Slabs in a "great Bowl".
Approach time is 30-60 minutes longer than for Sugarloaf.
Classic Climbing Routes at East Slabs
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
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Guidebooks (6)
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