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Elevation: 6,772 ft 2,064 m
GPS: 32.3497, -106.5406
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 10,500 total · 53/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on May 2, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown
Warning Access Issue: Power drilling is prohibited in the Organ Mountains Wilderness. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

An expansive slab of clean granite hides just around the corner from Sugarloaf. It offers climbing similar to the lower pitches of North Face: super clean low-angled granite, chicken heads and quartz dikes, and a few choice dihedrals and overlaps to mix things up. It sees a lot less traffic than Sugarloaf but is well worth the extra approach distance, especially if you like mellow slabs on beautiful rock.

Routes tend to be run-out over the 5.4-5.6 slab sections and it is not unusual for entire pitches to lack protection. Due to the curving angle of the slabs, the upper pitches are not visible from the base of the cliff, nor are they visible from the approach. The slabs extend to the south for over 1/4 mile.

Getting There Suggest change

While this slab is clearly visible from Hwy 70 and White Sands Missile Range, it is quickly hidden from view while hiking the approach to Sugarloaf along the Indian Hollow trail. Approach almost all the way to Sugarloaf but before you get to the "camping spot" on the trail, start heading left and towards a saddle to the north of Sugarloaf. Scramble over slabs and through oak thickets to gain the saddle where you'll find a huge boulder with a bivouac cave under it. This cave makes a perfect base-camp for spending a weekend on the East Slabs, just don't forget to bring plenty of water.

From the bivuac, scramble south trying to keep your elevation over a series of slabs. Keep going until you reach the north end of the East Slabs in a "great Bowl".

Approach time is 30-60 minutes longer than for Sugarloaf.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at East Slabs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 6
Normal Route
Trad 6 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 4
The Jewel
Trad 7 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 5
The Great Bowl/Ingraham Dihedral
Trad 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Normal Route
 6
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad 6 pitches
The Jewel
 4
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad 7 pitches
The Great Bowl/Ingraham Dih…
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 5 pitches
More Classic Climbs in East Slabs »

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