Type: Trad, 800 ft, 5 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 74 total · 9/month
Shared By: Drew Chojnowski on Apr 21, 2018
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

This route utilizes the first 1.5 pitches of the normal Great Bowl route, before diverging to the right over a steep slab crux that places you on a trajectory toward a topout at a large Pinon Pine with a full pitch of low-angle, uncracked, granite below it.

 P1 (45m, 5.6):  After a bunch of scrambling to get below it, climb a wide, laybackish feature near the right edge of the Great Bowl. This could be sewed up with some #5s, but a #4 among smaller are accepted at various points. Eventually, veer left on a walkable ramp toward a belay station with two old pitons that can be backed up.

 P2 (~60m, 5.8R):  Climb up to the center of the roof above, clipping a high left piton, and then grabbing the scary-looking but solid flake feature and mantling up the roof. Beyond the roof 20-30ft, the route diverges from the Great Bowl route, heading right up steep slab instead of left toward the Ingraham Dihedral. The crux of this would be easier for a tall person who could reach up and grab a critical chickenhead to surpass some steep slab. I placed blue and yellow ball nuts (bomber) in the thin crack just below this to work up the courage. Work right after this toward a large flake/crack system where an anchor can be built.

 P3 (15m, 5.5):  Climb up to a comfy ledge with a tree that can be slung for an anchor.

 P4 (45m, 5.5):  Identify a large pinion pine above and slightly left, and head for for it. Build an anchor in a left-facing crack below a featureless slab above.

 P5 (55m, 5.5R):  Ascend the blank slab below the large pine. I placed a single token nut about 3/4 of the way up the slab, where there is a small ledge.

Scramble from the large Pinon Pine upward and right, then join the normal walkoff back to Bivy Boulder.

Location

East Slabs approach to the start of the Great Bowl route.

Protection

A wide range of gear can be placed, from ball nuts to #4 Camalot. Bring plenty of slings to extend everything. Parts of the route are solid R though, especially P5.

Photos

0 Comments