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Routes in Sugarloaf

Banana Peel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brexit T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Crescendo T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Flea Tree T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Eyebrow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Left Eyebrow to North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Many Times (a.k.a. Backside Cracks or Crackle Top) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Old North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Science Friction (to Left Eyebrow) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Elevation: 7,683 ft
GPS: 32.347, -106.544 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 27,185 total, 191/month
Shared By: Bill Lawry on Mar 24, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

Description

Sugarloaf is the largest formation in the Organs, and hosts some of the longest rock climbs for miles around. West of the Organ crest proper, it is impossible to miss as the pristine-looking granite dome so prominent when viewed from San Augustin Pass between Cruces and Alamogordo. The impressive length of the routes, difficult-to-reach summit (the easiest way up is 4th class), great views of the Sacramento Mountains and Tularosa Basin, and overall wilderness experience makes Sugarloaf a must-do.

Most routes on Sugarloaf are shady most of the day, and can be very windy at times. It's very secluded- be self-sufficient (although cell reception may be ok), and have enough gear to survive getting benighted, a story which a few climbers tell of their first experience on this formation. The rock quality is overall very good, although expect some loose blocks and test everything, as with any formation in the wilderness.
Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Approach for Sugarloaf (in large part from John Hymer)

The approach to the start of North Face route will be well under two hours if you know the way or are efficient at finding the way. Nearly three hours may be more reasonable the first time. Access to other routes will take longer.

To access Sugarloaf (and other east-side routes in the Organ Mountains), park at the Aguirre Spring Campground approximately 5 miles south of Highway 70 on Aguirre Spring Road. There is potable water near the campground gate which is located miles before the actual campground. The gate hours currently change seasonally (2012). Inquire about gate hours and fees: BLM's Aguirre Springs Campground page

Well along the one-way loop, a pay station is located near a group campsite. Each vehicle pays a fee whether camping or not with he camp-site fee a little more than the day-use fee.

After taking care of the fee and deciding where to park, proceed to the second “group area” approximately 0.4 miles beyond the pay station and then down a spur road to the right. The Sugarloaf trail starts to the south of this “group area.” There are basically trail-head like parking spots and of course camp-site parking spots, depending on whether you are there for the day or spending the night. Not sure if parking for the day in a group area is okay.

From the parking lot for the second "group area", Sugarloaf is obscured by a large hill. The trail traverses the hill to the left. But first, south of the rest rooms, follow a trail up hill that eventually parallels a fence, and pass through a gate in the fence. Follow the trail across the stream bed. It turns to the east after the stream bed (a common mistake is to walk up the stream bed). Traverse the large hill high along its base; crossings of slabs obscure the path here and there so checking this out in daylight may help the first time. Follow this trail for approximately one hour. If you encounter another fence, you are on the lower trail and should turn back to the correct trail.

During years of high precipitation - in addition to the slabs adding challenges to following the approach trail - the trail can be obscured by high grasses making it difficult to follow in the dark on the way up and on the way down.

After approximately one hour, the trail crosses a primitive campsite. It is common to leave water here for the walk out. After a short level walk, the grade becomes steep. Just after the grade change, take a left fork and follow an obscure trail to the base of SL. Watch for snakes!

Descents From Summit - significant revision as of 15 October 2012

The descent from the summit back to the BLM's Aguirre Springs Campground will take around three hours at a steady human pace with no route-finding issues. Can be longer or shorter.

There are at least three ways to descend from the summit of Sugarloaf. But, as George Perkins once cautioned, there is too much information below to remember if you find yourself on the summit, in the dark, and having dropped all your beta on the way up including the descent description! Consider committing to memory just your chosen descent (e.g., recommended descent 'A').

Before getting to the 'A' and 'B' descents, note that you will come across three sets of bolted anchors as you scramble down the south ridge line. (Descent 'C' does not involve going down the south ridge line.)

  • The first set of bolted anchors one comes to are just skier's left of the ridge line (see below photo). These are the anchors at the top of pitch 2 of Crescendo and offer an alternate starting point for descent 'A'. However, a single 60 meter rope will NOT reach the intermediate anchor of descent 'A'. The FA'ists of Crescendo placed these because this location afforded a more natural finish for that route plus avoided rope drag.

  • The second set of bolted anchors one comes to are skier's right of the ridge line. This set is the start of descent 'B'.
  • The third set of bolted anchors one comes to are skier's left. This set is the start of descent 'A'.

A) South Ridge Raps ~South (recommended): Traverse down the exposed 3rd class of the south ridge line. Some rope up for this traverse. Skip the first set of anchor bolts on skier's left and continue to the second set on skier's left. (And ignore the pair of bolts on skier's right.) Rap 150 feet (~46 meters) to the saddle south of Sugarloaf - a double rope rap. The below photo with with comments indicates the left bolt of the summit anchor has been loose in the past, and the pair could be upgraded. Anyway, thanks to whoever replaced all the tat with hardware.


Alternately, mid-way through the 'A' rap descent, there is now a new intermediate bolted anchor (see below photo) for which Steven Reneau indicates: "Confirmed that one 60 m rope should work for the recommended rap ‘A’, using the new intermediate anchors. I used a 70 m rope, and had ~20’ to spare on the 2nd rap (~95’ to ground, minus rope stretch; 1st rap was shorter)."


Once on the saddle, scramble down west a short ways to another bolt anchor; rap the short slab of 80 feet (~25 meters). Any packs at the base of your climb can usually be retrieved by a scramble / hike / bush-whack affair down along the west side of Sugarloaf (avoidable**).

B) South Ridge Rap ~West (okay but 'A' is recommended): [106815978 reported near the end of 2012 that the bolted rap anchors are missing their carabiners we saw back in March 2012.] This descent completely bypasses both the saddle and the last short rap of option 'a' above. Traverse down the exposed 3rd class of the south ridge line and find anchor bolts on skier's right (newer style as of 3/2012); some rope up for this traverse. (For this descent ignore the two sets of anchor bolts on skier's left.) Jason Carlson reports: "With 2 70m ropes, we were easily able to reach the 2 bolt anchor below the first set of anchors, 10ft above the small ledge. On the way down from that anchor we saw the 3 nut placement in the crack system to the right, but we didn't use it, as 2 70m ropes will reach the bottom (with about 3 feet to spare), by a big pine tree in the gully."

I'll add that one time we stopped at a set of bolts about 115 feet (35 meters) down from the start of the rap; there is no ledge to stand on. But I wonder if these are the ones Jason Carlson reports as 10 feet above a ledge; when we went that way, it was dark and I might not have noticed that ledge.

Anyway, any packs at the base of your climb can usually be retrieved by a scramble / hike / bush-whack affair down along the west side of Sugarloaf (avoidable**).

C) East Side Rap ('A' is recommended except that this descent may help avoid prevailing winds): See R. L. Ingraham's 1972 guide for location. This descent route from the summit does not involve the south ridge line; rather, it drops off the ~east side of the summit. As of 10/2012, there was a cairn consisting of 3 large stones 30 feet above the first anchor which consists of a good 3/8 bolt with 1 pin still in and 1 pin hanging. One double rope rap on 70 meter ropes allows one to then scramble/hike skier's right for about 5 minutes around Sugarloaf to connect up with the 'A' and 'B' descents. If the Ingraham rap distances are precise enough, double 60's should work as well.

Additional Information About The Descents

Much thanks to the many folks who have contributed to various parts of the above and below information regarding Sugarloaf descents: Marta Reece, climber pat, Gary Parker, John Hymer, George Perkins, and Matt Twyman. Any errors in transcribing contributions are mine.

Don't assume all guides have been updated to account for the difference between the rap routes off the south ridge (e.g., 'A' and 'B' above), even some MP.com pages. Using old descriptions, it is easy - when tired at the end of the day and possibly in low light conditions - to go down a descent thinking it is Descent 'A' and be surprised to not have enough reach to continue down the rap route.

For South Ridge Rap ~South ('A'), a number of guides and sources report that the double-rop rap passes an intermediate fixed-gear anchor at 100 feet down. This fixed-gear anchor is no longer there (11/2012). Instead, see descent 'A' which describes a new intermediate bolted anchor.

Folks indicate that the last rap of South Ridge Rap ~West ('B') (i.e., double-rope rap) can be broken in two via an intermediate anchor consisting of fixed gear in a flake (check the integrity of fixed gear). Rap distances to/from that flake are unknown but the flake is a little to skiers left when rapping from the no-ledge bolted anchor. Unsure if this anchor of fixed gear is still there.

The double-rope rap of the East Side Rap ('C') passes an intermediate anchor consisting of three 1/4 inch leapers which are very badly rusted and one ancient micro nut - not usable by themselves as of 10/2012. A single 70 meter rope will reach this anchor, possibly a single 60 meter rope as well. Descending parties may or may not find this sketchy intermediate anchor supplemented with modern gear.

Also, after the double-rope rap of East Side Rap ('C') and instead of joining the 'A' and 'B' by scrambling to skier's right, it is possible to go skier's left / down to the ~north in a gully on the east side of Sugarloaf. If continuing to the base of Sugarloaf this way, one will likely find evidence of folks rapping here or there. At the same time, Ingraham mentions exiting early from the scramble down the gully and instead heading to a saddle ~NE of Sugarloaf (my words) - a different saddle than the one in 'A' above; I suspect Ingraham refers here to the saddle on the way from Aguirre Spring Campground to East Slabs. If so, one probably does not want to have left packs at the base of North Face or routes further around the west side of Sugarloaf such as Left Eyebrow.

** Scramble / hike / bush-whack affair down along the west side of Sugarloaf can be avoided by instead following Sugarloaf Falls (i.e., a "technical" slabby wash), in which case don't leave packs at the base of your climb. The wash starts shortly after the last rap of either descent 'A' or 'B'. Initially trend slightly skier's left on slabs away from Sugarloaf and then down a stony / slabby wash. After ~1000 feet of elevation loss (~40 minutes at a steady pace; 1+ hours is more likely), leave the wash on a trail. There have in the past been cairns marking where this trail crosses the slabby wash. Take the trail to skier's right which takes one back to the lower primitive campsite described in the Approach for Sugarloaf.

The hardest part about descending the slabby wash is knowing when to leave it - helpful to have daylight to find the exit or to have previewed this spot in the daylight by coming up on the trail from below.

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Stefan Griebel
Boulder, Colorado
Stefan Griebel   Boulder, Colorado
Here's a GPX of the approach and descent. This includes ascent of N Face, but I thought I'd cross post it here to help keep folks from getting lost on the hike out in the dark!

dropbox.com/s/f599u7bat79cq… Apr 16, 2016
Marta Reece
Las Cruces, NM
Marta Reece   Las Cruces, NM  
For more information on the Normal Route you can go to summitpost.org/forget-about… or web.nmsu.edu/~amato/ingraha… Nov 1, 2013
Climbed Sugarloaf 10/22 by Ingram’s 4th class route (his “Normal Route”, web.nmsu.edu/~amato/ingraha…, perhaps low 5th class by today’s rating; some like ropes for this route (see SummitPost entry for more description). Can be approached from Aguirre Springs, heading to base of North Face and into drainage to east. Upper part of this route passes old rap stations (East Side Rap (‘C’)?), which would need work.

Confirmed that one 60 m rope should work for the recommended rap ‘A’, using the new intermediate anchors. I used a 70 m rope, and had ~20’ to spare on the 2nd rap (~95’ to ground, minus rope stretch; 1st rap was shorter).

Descended via slabby wash on W side. Trail out of wash wasn’t obvious at first, but was at the first place where I saw a mellow traverse to the right. Connected with the approach route at a small black sign indicating Sugarloaf to left and Saddle/Pine Tree to right. Oct 25, 2013
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
Excellent new descent write up. For my next tour, want to do the "ii" descent using a single 70m to confirm that the procedure and rope lengths required. The double 70's make for a good rap, but pulling the rope is heinously difficult. All day long, it was the hardest work I'd done all day. Thanks again for typing this up. Oct 17, 2012
Here's a link to the approach hike (my phone logged it at 2.75 miles with 1500ft of elevation gain):

mapmyrun.com/routes/view/12… (I don't know if you need an account or not)

Took us (3 50ish and 1 60ish) just under 1:30 carrying enough gear and water for two rope teams in August.

Sadly we bailed from Big Bivy ledge (again) because of impending thunderstorms... which never really materialized :-( Aug 18, 2012
We did the 5.6 North Face route a few days ago. We used Bill Lawry's beta for the "Southerly" descent and found it to be accurate and straight forward. With the following addition, there is a crack and ledge directly below the rap anchor. This crack eats ropes. We were able to get ours free but it was a pain the ass. It might be better to carry the ropes during the rap rather then trying to throw them. Bill Lawry's descent beta is noted above to be on another page, follow his link.

Also, stay on the approach trail. Wandering off of it can result in a lengthy and brutal bush wack;) May 2, 2012
mcarizona
Flag
mcarizona   Flag
Approach: find the well traveled Indian Hollow trail at the opening of the fence behind group camp 2. When you get to the sign that says sugarloaf, go left. If you can't yet see the slabs at the base you might try using the cairns.
Steve Mar 19, 2012
Re Craig Childre's question: Yes, using the intermediate rap anchor, you can do the south/left (as descending) rap route with a single 60m (or 70m) rope. Although, full disclosure...I've only done it with two ropes. Oct 16, 2011
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
Can anyone confirm if the left/souther rap off the top is still doable with a single 70M? Via the ex-rat-nest-hanging belay? Laying up plans for a go at the Left Eyebrow, last trip we used the western side/new rap anchors where 2 70M got us down, but high potential for a stuck rope, and I would have hated to have tried it with a single rope. Oct 16, 2011
Just to clarify a point about the descent...once you walk down the ridge to the south from the summit, there are two rap anchors, on the right (easier to see), and one on the left. The one described in the sugarloaf overview is the one on the left, and it works very well (I suggest using this option). I have not tried the intermediate rap station, but as I was going by it the other day, I noticed that someone has cleaned up the webbing rats nest.

Edit: Please refer to the new descent options in the main sugarloaf write-up. The intermediate rap station that I refer to is now replaced by nice bolts. But there are also two bolts at the top of Crescendo which should not be confused with the 'A' descent option. Sep 4, 2011
Dan Carter
Las Cruces, NM
Dan Carter   Las Cruces, NM
I was just up at the sugarloaf over the weekend. The approach as described by John Hymer worked out really well. There were cairns most of the way. After hiking for about an hour, the trail kind of cuts left (to the east of a ridge) with a big log blocking the way so it's not obvious at first. This is a fairly good trail and stops very close to the base of the north route. One then just scrambles over a little to start the route.

For the descent, we rapped down the west side. There were shiny new anchors at the top and right at 35m down. A 70m rope bairly hit these anchors. The next anchor was a sketchy nest of fixed nuts and webbing on a detached flake. It was off to the south a little bit. This didn't feel to secure but all we had. From here one can rap to the ground. There was another anchor with webbing in the gully on the south side. We didn't see this until we hit the ground. Oct 18, 2010
longfeather
Albuqurque ,NM
longfeather   Albuqurque ,NM
I put manky rap route on west side two nice raps to base I thin two ropes are needs X wife stated they are still there , if I make it next weel I put rap bolts in and solve the shitty bolt shitty rap dilemma. I rapped off west side of top remember nice rap just diddnt have much gear to leave . Put me in west drainage and hiked down around to my stuff. There is great potential for a route in middle of upper n face are there any anti bolting guardians opposed prob goes old school three bolts per pitch two pitches . This would avoid going left at upper face. Plan to try to get my 6 yr old up it next week if its dry. Ill scope it out and wait for comment. Though if I make it to my rap anchors Im boltn then they are way easier descent in my opinion..

LE Mar 15, 2010
Aaron Hobson
Clinton, TN
Aaron Hobson   Clinton, TN  
What other descent did you try? How bad was it? Feb 6, 2008
Approach for Sugarloaf:

To access Sugarloaf, and other east side routes, park at the Aguirre Spring Campground approximately 5 miles south of Highway 70 on Aguirre Spring Road. The gate is often locked until 8:00am. A pay station is located near a group campsite on the one-way loop road. Proceed to the second “group area” approximately 0.4 miles beyond the pay station. The Sugarloaf trail-head is located to the south of this “group area.”

From the parking lot, Sugarloaf is obscured by a large hill. The trail traverses the hill to the left. Find a gate south of the restrooms and follow the trail across the stream bed. It turns to the east after the stream bed (a common mistake is to walk up the stream bed). Traverse the large hill high along its base. Follow this trail for approximately one hour. If you encounter a fence, you are on the lower trail and should turn back to the correct trail.

After approximately one hour, the trail crosses a campsite. It is common to leave water here for the walk out. After a short level walk, the grade becomes steep. Just after the grade change, take a left fork and follow an obscure trail to the base of SL. Watch for snakes! The entire approach usually takes approximately 1.5 hours. Jul 29, 2007

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