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Routes in Sugarloaf

Banana Peel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brexit T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Crescendo T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Flea Tree T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Eyebrow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Left Eyebrow to North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Many Times (a.k.a. Backside Cracks or Crackle Top) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Old North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Science Friction (to Left Eyebrow) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,069 total · 13/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Jun 25, 2011
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details


This prominent right facing corner is just to the left of Science Friction (to Left Eyebrow), and is another variation start to the Left Eyebrow. It is a very attractive corner, which peels back to the right for 150ft. It is made for lay-backing, and offers just enough stances to keep from getting too strenuous.

P1: Start off to the right from the corner and climb in to the left on good flakes and ledges. Get into the corner and layback your way up 150ft. You'll pass some hollow sounding flakes along the way, so tread carefully and test the rock.

P2: Lesser quality and easier corner system. 5.4 climbing for 200-250 ft to join up with Left Eyebrow. Granite is a bit crumbly and there are loose sections, but the lower angle keeps it from being sketchy.


Hike almost all the way up to the great eye of Sugarloaf. The right-facing corner will be pretty obvious, and is just to the left of the ultra-thin slab climb Science Friction.


The crack is often hand-fist sized, so appropriate cams are nice to have. However, other gear can be found as well up the corner, so a regular rack should be adequate. A fixed yellow metolius cam is at the crux, and can be hard to clip since it is jammed in pretty deep. A bolted anchor can be found at the top of the first pitch.


Marta Reece
Las Cruces, NM
Marta Reece   Las Cruces, NM  
Variation of Pitch 1, done in two pitches. (In the image Jon Tylka is leading this version, but as a single pitch. We had a 70m rope that time.)

1: (80 ft, 5.7) Start left of the flake, at the same location as the start of Left Eyebrow. Follow ramp to start of layback flake.

2: (130 ft, 5.8) Do the long layback, about 100 feet, then turn the flake on the right and continue up an easy scramble to a two-bolt anchor.

You can rap from here to the ground with two 60m ropes. Oct 12, 2016

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