Avg: 2.7 from 9 votes
|Type:||Trad, 900 ft (273 m), 5 pitches, Grade III|
|Page Views:||3,086 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||Charles Cundiff on Apr 18, 2007|
|Admins:||Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
Orientation: from where you stand, locate the Flea Tree. To the right of it a row of small bushes starting from the sky line marks the top of the dihedral you will be climbing. As you trace that line down, it will become a clearly visible crack and toward the bottom a dihedral with a pair of cracks in it making a narrow, inverted V. The V will become visible as you get closer and will serve as a landmark.
Pitches 1 and 2, 5.5 - 5.6, 350 to 400 ft total. Go up the wide apron to the bottom of the crack. The terrain is made up of flakes few inches thick, making up a sea of disorganized, right-facing corners. The climbing is easy and you may want to scramble partway up, but even if you do, it will likely still take two pitches to reach the bottom of the crack. You will pass two good bolts, one of them with a hook hanger, short distance below it. This is your last chance to rap down. There is no other fixed gear on the route.
Pitch 3, 5.7, 180 feet. Go up the crack (the right half of the inverted V is easier) and stay with it. This is the crux pitch. It is steeper, cleaner, and more fun. Belay where the crack opens up into a corner and provides a nice enough ledge.
Pitch 4, 5.7, 100 ft. Go up the disorganized, unappetizing dihedral to its top, then have some fun on a featured but interesting slab on your way to the Flea Tree.
Pitch 5, 5.6, 200 ft. Go up to the right of the right facing corner above the Flea Tree until it becomes easy to step up onto it. Continue straight up or somewhat to the left for a long slab climb to the summit.