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Routes in Sugarloaf

Banana Peel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brexit T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Crescendo T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Flea Tree T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Eyebrow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Left Eyebrow to North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Many Times (a.k.a. Backside Cracks or Crackle Top) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Old North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Science Friction (to Left Eyebrow) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 215 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Matt Twyman, Adam Mitchell
Page Views: 277 total · 4/month
Shared By: Matt Twyman on Nov 29, 2012
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

Bouldery crux until just after pulling the lip. Then eases to 5.8 and a very enjoyable cruise through nice cracks, cool features & two gorgeous arcs with a chill slab finish.

If aided through the overhang, estimated @ II C2 5.9.

There was an old rap sling on a horn ~ 2/3 way up to new p1 anchors. Left in place. Line has likely seen effort before. Any history / credits due is much appreciated.

Location

Just below (west) of south saddle. Last continuous finger-sized crack system before saddle ridge. Starts in overhang/pod. Ends up slab above two beautiful & obvious arcs (can alternately bail left to large bivy ledge with homemade anchors and lizard patterned webbing over small hump before last arc peters out but beware of heinous drag for belaying the 2nd). New SS Powers 3/8-3.5" 5pc + rap rings at both pitches.

The slab is an obvious finish and saves drag but it spits you out half way up the south summit ridge descent ramp (Descents 'A' & 'B' detailed by Bill Lowry). No anchors could be built without walking up the rest of the ramp to the summit blocks. This just didn't feel right so we figured it would be best to install additional anchors to support the natural finish to the route as well as offer a bomber rap option.

Protection

Small gear the whole way. Bring 1ea #1, .75, .5 & multiples of smaller. Start takes good gear but the crux sequence demands a BD #2 TCU or similar to save space for a minimal slot jam.

If aiding, bring same gear + a couple of beaks.

70m rope if you plan to rap using the 2nd pitch anchors as your descent. Otherwise you can use a 60m and utilize Descent 'A' as detailed by Bill Lowry.

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