Getting close!

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Sugarloaf around backcounty campsite

George Goedecke and Dick Ingraham gearing up for Sugarloaf (circa late 1960s). With permission from Chris O'Brien.

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Stu Ritchie

Apr 5, 2012

“Getting close!”

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Rough topo of some of Sugarloaf's routes.

A little friend we ran into on the approach!

If you come across this sign early in the approach, take it seriously, you are about 500 ft from the trail you want which traverses the hillside to your right.

Another Old Topo of SugarLoaf.

Marta belaying me up an infrequently climbed section of Sugarloaf, on the way to her 56th time on the summit! This has to be a record! The x's show the bolted anchor atop P4 of the North Face route.

Tom Schuster (with Mike Edmonds on his heels) at the last pitch. The entire route can be seen spread out below him

North Face 5.7 IV

From the technical slab-y gully descent, on a beautiful late-September day.

Sugarloaf around backcounty campsite

George Goedecke and Dick Ingraham gearing up for Sugarloaf (circa late 1960s). With permission from Chris O'Brien.

Sugarloaf from the West. See [[108424423]] for [[105948446]].

Sugarloaf Mountain. The Flea Tree Dihedral route starts to the right of the obvious cave. There are other long, scary routes that start to the right of the cave.

RAPPEL 5 of 5: This is the location of the second rappel anchor. After completing the first rappel, scramble down the gully which will be to your left if looking at the rock. The anchors are on the bottom of the gully before the steep drop.

RAPPEL 4 of 5: Location of the top rappel anchor which IS NOT visible from the summit

RAPPEL 1 of 5: Approximate locations of descent rappel anchors on satellite map

Sugarloaf from the approach trail.

Sugarloaf approach, with an imminent storm. Maybe time to turn back?

View back towards the campground from near the base of Sugarloaf.

Sugarloaf from the Marathon Route

View of a cloudy Sugarloaf on our approach hike July 7, 2012. We had nice cool climbing for the first 6 pitches (to big bivy ledge), watching storms carefully, we bailed two pitches too late and got caught in a brief thundershower on the rappel. Amazing amounts of water pouring off the face for a short while.

after the rain

Looking up Sugarloaf. The "Eye" is visible right of center, between two trees.

Anyone planning to use the normal rappel-from-summit bolts should either bring a crescent wrench or a bolting kit (latter solution would be best). The nut on the righthand/newer bolt was very loose, so we screwed it back on as best we could by hand. Not exactly confidence inspiring. The shiny, modern bolted anchor on the way to the normal anchor looks great but probably isn't useful for normal descent from the long routes... this original anchor should be upgraded.

This is the sign in the 2nd group parking that is key to finding the start of the trail. Either bushbash past the sign in a straight line to meet it, or go to the picnic spot in the left of the photo and veer right then left through the V gate.

SE wall. History???

Sugarloaf as seen from the summit of Minerva's Temple.

RAPPEL 2 of 5: Setting up a belay to get to the top rappel anchor, look south from the summit for this last visible jumble of rocks. If needed, a boulder can be slung here to set up a belay to get safely to the top rappel anchors.

pano from half way up looking out

RAPPEL 3 of 5: Head straight south out on this rib and then down to the left to find the top rappel anchor

Sugarloaf

Currently hosting Many Times (aka Crackle Top) & Crescendo. Hard to justify the approach for just one 2-pitch line but for two it's good. South side history please.

Last rays of the November sun illuminates Sugarloaf as seen during a descent from The Wedge.