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Routes in Shortline Wall

Amtrax T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Anthrax T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Tracks TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

This small wall in the Rabbit Ears Massif area hosts a couple excellent short crack climbs. While probably not a destination itself, its close proximity to The Citadel and the Rabbit Ears Slabs make it worth a visit if you finish off a climb on one of those walls and want a few extra pitches of quality climbing. It is also right next to "the Keyhole", a distinct and interesting feature on the ridge above Rabbit Ears Slabs.

Getting There

This wall is uphill and SW from The Citadel wand is pretty easy to pick out. It is a clean small wall with a few nice cracks streaking up it. Scramble and bushwhack directly up to the wall.

Alternatively, one can approach via the "Keyhole" route, which is described in the Ingrham Guide . The Shortline wall is immediately on your right after passing through the Keyhole.

3 Total Climbs

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Aaron Hobson
Clinton, TN
Aaron Hobson   Clinton, TN
The Rosul-Dunning claims you can walk-off the top of this wall. I didn't look too hard for a walk-off, since rappelling from the anchors works fine.

The right-hand crack could be climbed free, but would be R/X rated without the addition of a few bolts. It also looks like one could climb the slab/arete on the far right hand side of the wall. Worth checking out if your there. May 30, 2010
A number of people climbed in the Citadel Canyon, late 70s and early 80s. The quarter inch bolts are old and should be supplemented. I put in the rap station during the summer of 1979.

I tried to climb the right crack ground up and backed off. It could be a good climb if a couple of bolted were added. The climbing will be technical, I couldn't TR the route that day either. May 31, 2010

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