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North Rabbit Ear Rock Climbing
Routes in North Rabbit Ear
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Awful Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Boyer's Chute T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Chute Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Davis Route, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Hand Jive T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Little Question T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Miracle Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Parabola T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Pea Pod T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rotten Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sleight of Hand T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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South Face Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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South Face Traverse T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Surprise Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1-2 |
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West Face Corner T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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West Face Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Elevation: | 7,668 ft |
| GPS: | 32.37, -106.578 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 7,379 total · 57/month |
| Shared By: | Aaron Hobson on Mar 10, 2008 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski |
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas
Details
The Organ Mountains are in the Organ Mountains Desert Peaks National Monument which includes eight Wilderness Study Areas (WSAs). Placing new bolts, even if hand-drilled, is not allowed in WSAs. Please see section 1.6, D5, (g) at the BLM Manual 6330—Management of BLM Wilderness Study Areasblm.gov/sites/blm.gov/files… document for the policy regarding fixed anchors in WSAs. More about the Organ Mountain Desert Peaks National Monument, including maps showing the WSAs, can be found here.organmountains.org/wilderness/
The Access Fund has some helpful informationaccessfund.org/open-gate-bl… about public land agencies and the bolting rules of each agency.
The Access Fund has some helpful informationaccessfund.org/open-gate-bl… about public land agencies and the bolting rules of each agency.
Description
The largest peak of the Rabbit Ears group, the North Rabbit Ear is a complicated assembly of chutes, faces and buttresses. Some of the faces are sustained and steep, while others offer moderate routes and top-out far from the summit, which can be an additional 800ft of 4th class scrambling. The convoluted nature of the peak and somewhat vague descriptions of the routes from the Ingraham guide combine to make for an excellent exercise in route-finding and general mountaineering skills.
This peak once boasted to be the most climbed peak in the Organs. There is little evidence that the peak gets the attention it once did, the approach trails undetectable, the route descriptions out-dated and the summit register bare for the past 4 years. However, the peak maintains its allure to local climbers, and offers a huge array of climbing possibilities; low-fifth class solo routes, meandering moderate routes up its many buttresses, and untapped possibilities of its steeper lines.
This peak once boasted to be the most climbed peak in the Organs. There is little evidence that the peak gets the attention it once did, the approach trails undetectable, the route descriptions out-dated and the summit register bare for the past 4 years. However, the peak maintains its allure to local climbers, and offers a huge array of climbing possibilities; low-fifth class solo routes, meandering moderate routes up its many buttresses, and untapped possibilities of its steeper lines.
Getting There
Approach can be from Aguirre springs for East Face routes, but is predominately from the Topp Hut Mine via Rabbit Ear Canyon. Expect some degree of bushwhacking and 45 min -2 hours from the top of the Topp Hut rd.
Descent from the summit is typically to the south face. Descend an easy ramp on the South East corner for about 200 ft until a rappel station of 2-pitons and a bolt is found. A 100 ft rappel gains a second rappel station consisting of 2 bolts. A final 140 ft rappel gains the saddle between Middle Rabbit Ear and North Rabbit Ear. There is a sketchy rappel station of tattered slings about 40 ft from the saddle which allows one to descend in 3 single-rope rappels. Many of the routes have independent descent options.
Descent from the summit is typically to the south face. Descend an easy ramp on the South East corner for about 200 ft until a rappel station of 2-pitons and a bolt is found. A 100 ft rappel gains a second rappel station consisting of 2 bolts. A final 140 ft rappel gains the saddle between Middle Rabbit Ear and North Rabbit Ear. There is a sketchy rappel station of tattered slings about 40 ft from the saddle which allows one to descend in 3 single-rope rappels. Many of the routes have independent descent options.
Classic Climbing Routes at North Rabbit Ear
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Guidebooks (4)
Clinton, TN
Las Cruces, NM
Albuquerque, NM