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North Rabbit Ear Rock Climbing
Routes in North Rabbit Ear
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Awful Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Boyer's Chute T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Chute Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Davis Route, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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DreamBoat Annie T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Hand Jive T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Little Question T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Miracle Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Parabola T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Pea Pod T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rotten Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sleight of Hand T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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South Face Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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South Face Traverse T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Surprise Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1-2 |
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West Face Corner T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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West Face Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Elevation: | 7,668 ft |
| GPS: | 32.37, -106.578 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 14,630 total · 93/month |
| Shared By: | Aaron Hobson on Mar 10, 2008 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski |
Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico Requirements - Updated Nov. 16, 2020
Details
Effective November 16th, 2020, please do not travel into New Mexico to climb.
On November 16, 2020, the New Mexico state governor updated the executive order (cv.nmhealth.org/wp-content/…) requiring all visitors from out of state to self-isolate or self-quarantine for a period of at least 14 days from the date of their entry into the State of New Mexico or for the duration of their presence in the State, whichever is shorter. The terms "self-isolate" or "self-quarantine" refer the voluntary physical separation of a person or group of people in a residence or other place of lodging. Any person who is self-isolating or self-quarantining may only leave a residence or place of lodging to receive medical care and should not allow others into the residence or place of lodging except for those providing medical care, emergency response, or other individuals designated by the New Mexico Department of Health.
The executive order also closes all New Mexico State Parks to non-NM residents.
This Executive Order shall take effect on November 16, 2020 and shall remain in effect through the duration of the public health emergency declared in Executive Order 2020-004 and any extensions of that emergency declaration or until it is rescinded.
Additionally, NM state guidance requires all persons to wear a mask anytime they are out in public, including outdoor recreation areas.
On November 16, 2020, the New Mexico state governor updated the executive order (cv.nmhealth.org/wp-content/…) requiring all visitors from out of state to self-isolate or self-quarantine for a period of at least 14 days from the date of their entry into the State of New Mexico or for the duration of their presence in the State, whichever is shorter. The terms "self-isolate" or "self-quarantine" refer the voluntary physical separation of a person or group of people in a residence or other place of lodging. Any person who is self-isolating or self-quarantining may only leave a residence or place of lodging to receive medical care and should not allow others into the residence or place of lodging except for those providing medical care, emergency response, or other individuals designated by the New Mexico Department of Health.
The executive order also closes all New Mexico State Parks to non-NM residents.
This Executive Order shall take effect on November 16, 2020 and shall remain in effect through the duration of the public health emergency declared in Executive Order 2020-004 and any extensions of that emergency declaration or until it is rescinded.
Additionally, NM state guidance requires all persons to wear a mask anytime they are out in public, including outdoor recreation areas.
Description
The largest peak of the Rabbit Ears group, the North Rabbit Ear is a complicated assembly of chutes, faces and buttresses. Some of the faces are sustained and steep, while others offer moderate routes and top-out far from the summit, which can be an additional 800ft of 4th class scrambling. The convoluted nature of the peak and somewhat vague descriptions of the routes from the Ingraham guide combine to make for an excellent exercise in route-finding and general mountaineering skills.
This peak once boasted to be the most climbed peak in the Organs. There is little evidence that the peak gets the attention it once did, the approach trails undetectable, the route descriptions out-dated and the summit register bare for the past 4 years. However, the peak maintains its allure to local climbers, and offers a huge array of climbing possibilities; low-fifth class solo routes, meandering moderate routes up its many buttresses, and untapped possibilities of its steeper lines.
This peak once boasted to be the most climbed peak in the Organs. There is little evidence that the peak gets the attention it once did, the approach trails undetectable, the route descriptions out-dated and the summit register bare for the past 4 years. However, the peak maintains its allure to local climbers, and offers a huge array of climbing possibilities; low-fifth class solo routes, meandering moderate routes up its many buttresses, and untapped possibilities of its steeper lines.
Getting There
Approach can be from Aguirre springs for East Face routes, but is predominately from the Topp Hut Mine via Rabbit Ear Canyon. Expect some degree of bushwhacking and 45 min -2 hours from the top of the Topp Hut rd.
Descent from the summit is typically to the south face. Descend an easy ramp on the South East corner for about 200 ft until a rappel station of 2-pitons and a bolt is found. A 100 ft rappel gains a second rappel station consisting of 2 bolts. A final 140 ft rappel gains the saddle between Middle Rabbit Ear and North Rabbit Ear. There is a sketchy rappel station of tattered slings about 40 ft from the saddle which allows one to descend in 3 single-rope rappels. Many of the routes have independent descent options.
Descent from the summit is typically to the south face. Descend an easy ramp on the South East corner for about 200 ft until a rappel station of 2-pitons and a bolt is found. A 100 ft rappel gains a second rappel station consisting of 2 bolts. A final 140 ft rappel gains the saddle between Middle Rabbit Ear and North Rabbit Ear. There is a sketchy rappel station of tattered slings about 40 ft from the saddle which allows one to descend in 3 single-rope rappels. Many of the routes have independent descent options.
Classic Climbing Routes at North Rabbit Ear
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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