Elevation: 7,668 ft
GPS: 32.37, -106.578 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 11,457 total · 79/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Mar 10, 2008
Admins: Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski, Jason Halladay
Access Issue: Power drilling is prohibited in the Organ Mountains Wilderness. Details

Description

The largest peak of the Rabbit Ears group, the North Rabbit Ear is a complicated assembly of chutes, faces and buttresses. Some of the faces are sustained and steep, while others offer moderate routes and top-out far from the summit, which can be an additional 800ft of 4th class scrambling. The convoluted nature of the peak and somewhat vague descriptions of the routes from the Ingraham guide combine to make for an excellent exercise in route-finding and general mountaineering skills.

This peak once boasted to be the most climbed peak in the Organs. There is little evidence that the peak gets the attention it once did, the approach trails undetectable, the route descriptions out-dated and the summit register bare for the past 4 years. However, the peak maintains its allure to local climbers, and offers a huge array of climbing possibilities; low-fifth class solo routes, meandering moderate routes up its many buttresses, and untapped possibilities of its steeper lines.

Getting There

Approach can be from Aguirre springs for East Face routes, but is predominately from the Topp Hut Mine via Rabbit Ear Canyon. Expect some degree of bushwhacking and 45 min -2 hours from the top of the Topp Hut rd.

Descent from the summit is typically to the south face. Descend an easy ramp on the South East corner for about 200 ft until a rappel station of 2-pitons and a bolt is found. A 100 ft rappel gains a second rappel station consisting of 2 bolts. A final 140 ft rappel gains the saddle between Middle Rabbit Ear and North Rabbit Ear. There is a sketchy rappel station of tattered slings about 40 ft from the saddle which allows one to descend in 3 single-rope rappels. Many of the routes have independent descent options.

17 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at North Rabbit Ear

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 17
Boyer's Chute
Trad 5 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 6
The Davis Route
Trad 4 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 4
Hand Jive
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 7
West Face Corner
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Boyer's Chute
 17
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 5 pitches
The Davis Route
 6
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 4 pitches
Hand Jive
 4
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
West Face Corner
 7
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in North Rabbit Ear »

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