Elevation: 4,668 ft
GPS: 32.224, -106.598 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 64,942 total · 366/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Feb 28, 2006 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
Access Issue: Power drilling is prohibited in the Organ Mountains Wilderness. Details
Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico State Requirements Details

Description

In the shadow of Hueco Tanks lies this lesser known and lesser quality area. Pena Blanca is a sprawling rock playground on the southern foot of the Organ mountains. There are scores of established boulder problems and potential for more. Much of the rock is of poor quality which keeps the area relatively free from the crowds seen at Hueco.

A few climbing resources exist but nothing has been published. Visit huecotanks.com/BCDetail.htm for more descriptions of the area. Also check out another developing e-guide at vcrux.com/penablanca.aspx (see comment by Lowell below).

There are a handful of short sport and trad routes, as well as top-rope problems that merit a visit. But what Pena Blanca has most of is bouldering, and it is through bouldering that this area will get known.

The area is currently designated as Wilderness Study Area by the BLM which restricts off-roading activities. Petroglyphs are found here and if you find some refrain from climbing near them.

Getting There

When driving between Las Cruces and El Paso on I-10, Pena Blanca is clearly visible to the east. Take the Mesquite exit and head east. The paved road takes you by a landfill and liquid waste site, then turns to a dirt road. When you are approximately due southwest of the rocks there are roads that lead to the different climbing spots, though they have been blocked (as of 2020) to vehicular traffic. Now, the closest walking option for most/all areas is probably the cul-du-sac lot about a mile past the old access road (32.218980, -106.596241).

Resources

There is a collection of rough maps with names/difficulties of routes and problems at Pena Blanca. Contact Aaron Hobson (or see the above link and browse)to get them sent to you. They are by no means complete, and only give the user an idea of the large amount of climbing that occurs here.

85 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Pena Blanca Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Pena Blanca

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4 PG13
 14
High Tales Protest
Boulder
V1 5
 7
Yashapoopee's
Boulder
V1+ 5
 7
Grandpa Smith
Boulder
V2 5+
 17
White Lightning
Boulder
V3 6A
 12
Rave
Boulder
V5 6C
 3
Fear Of Paralysis
Boulder
V5 6C
 6
Fire Pit
Boulder
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 19
Speak in English
TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Hole in the Wall
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 8
El Diablo
TR
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 3
Fortune Cookie
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
High Tales Protest S Central > Smith Family Bo… > Grandpa Smith Boulder
 14
V0 4 PG13 Boulder
Yashapoopee's S Central > Smith Family Bo… > Grandpa Smith Boulder
 7
V1 5 Boulder
Grandpa Smith S Central > Smith Family Bo… > Grandpa Smith Boulder
 7
V1+ 5 Boulder
White Lightning Volcano > Rave
 17
V2 5+ Boulder
Rave Volcano > Rave
 12
V3 6A Boulder
Fear Of Paralysis Volcano > Rave
 3
V5 6C Boulder
Fire Pit Volcano > Fire Pit
 6
V5 6C Boulder
Speak in English Garden > El Diablo Spire
 19
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a TR
Hole in the Wall Garden > Garden Spire
 4
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
El Diablo Garden > El Diablo Spire
 8
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c TR
Fortune Cookie Garden > Garden Spire
 3
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Pena Blanca »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos