Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,195 total · 20/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Jan 23, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


28 Opinions

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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

Start at a dead gnarly oak on a ledge 20 ft up the cliff, under a large left facing crack system. A huge roof caps off the final pitch and makes an excellent landmark.

Pitch 1 goes right up a fourth class corner onto a large ledge (unless you scramble this part) and then climbs the corner/crack system up to a small belay stance just below a hand traverse left.

Pitch 2 (crux) goes out the hand traverse and up a steep layback for a ways. Yucca plants make pulling out of the crack system sticky. Go up one more step to the next level of the broad, walkable ramp and belay underneath the huge roof.

Pitch 3 traverses underneath the roof, some spectacular and exposed 5.7 climbing. After turning the side of the roof, follow a short crack system to the summit.

To descend, scramble east down past a yucca and oak to a chain anchor at the top of Five Easy Steps. 165' to the ground. A mid-point rap-anchor allows one to descend with a single 60m rope. Keep an eye out for these bolts to your left, on a nice ledge.

Protection

Standard rack. The belay ledge under the roof has a single bolt.

Photos

George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.9
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.9
The K.Kiser bolted face variation for pitch 3, left of the left-angling roof traverse, is fun, and about 5.9. One of the 2 bolts had a modern one (right next to the old one), the other had just the original 1/4" bolt. Feb 11, 2008
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
 
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
 
Start the first pitch right of the oak, face climbing up the bulge/arete. There is surprisingly good gear(including a magic purple camalot pocket!) and the 5.8 moves are fun. The corner looked loose and dirty. A new bolt provides a good anchor at 2nd belay.

Overall, a much better climb than it looked from the ground. The crux corner is brilliant and the finishing traverse under the roof is actually spectacular. Bring a camera. Jan 21, 2013
Daniel Rossi 1  
  5.9
Fun rout with great protection the whole way. Climbing directly up the slab at the top (one bolt and thin gear) was a great alternative to finish, however decently more challenging though. May 15, 2016
Kevin Enriquez
AK visiting EP
 
Kevin Enriquez   AK visiting EP
 
Great approach, not too long. The climb itself is good, but the shelf traverse before the "final pitch" (refer to Last Pitch photo added on the climb) makes the climb a lot more interesting as you hit a much more exposed area. I'd recommend giving this climb a go if you're in the area looking for a shorter day. Sep 5, 2016
Ian Harris
Las Cruces NM
 
Ian Harris   Las Cruces NM
 
Pitch 3: Bring some small gear to protect the moves after the bolt and before reaching the roof. I found a good placement for a BD .3 cam directly above the bolt and part of the roof. Nov 8, 2016
Drew Chojnowski
Las Cruces, NM
 
Drew Chojnowski   Las Cruces, NM  
 
Someone should bring a brush up P1 and clean off the dirt and debris. Apparently some recent rockfall created a mess. Jan 2, 2018