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Routes in Middle Rabbit Ear

Church Key T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
East Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Great Expectations T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gubbins T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Normal Route (South Corner) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North Face Gullies T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
South Face Central T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
South Face Cutoff T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c C0
Three's the Charm T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
West Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elevation: 7,778 ft
GPS: 32.369, -106.577 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 3,858 total, 31/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Aug 7, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

Description

The middle peak of the Rabbit Ears group. The west face has some beautiful lines, and there is hard-route potential on the north side where a steep series of roofs dubbed the ChurchKey is found. You're not likely to run into other climbers up here, but you will find great 3-4 pitch routes. If you time your ascent right, you can climb in either the sun or shade. Even in July, you can comfortably climb here, although the approach/descent begin to get stifling.
Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Getting There

Approach can be made from either side of the range (Starting from the Aguirre Springs parking or from the Topp Hut). The typical approach is to come from the Topp Hut. Hike into Rabbit Ears Canyon, past The Citadel. Continue up the canyon, staying in or near the stream bed which is usually dry. Eventually, there will be a lesser-gully that branches off to the left directly up towards the North and Middle Rabbit ears. Follow an indistinct trail in this gully and next to it on its south side. It leads roughly to the base of the West Face of the Middle Rabbit Ear.

Descent

The descent route is off the south side. Scramble down to a large tree, with several old slings and a wire-cable around it. A two-rope rappel gains a large tree-filled ledge. There is also an old belay station consisting of two old 1/4" bolts which allows you to gain the ledge with two single-rope rappels. Walk to the far west side of the ledge where a chain anchor is found. A single-rope rappel reaches the ground.

The descent route roughly follows the Normal Route (South Corner).

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Classic Climbing Routes at Middle Rabbit Ear

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Face
Trad 6 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
West Face 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 6 pitches
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The approach from the east can be made by starting on the Baylor Pass trail, then following a cairned route up a steepening ridge, eventually entering and scrambling up the gully that tumbles down from the MRE/SRE col. The cairns help avoid most of the brush, by weaving up the ridge. Once in the gully, expect class 3 scrambling w/ a few class 4 moves. If you get in the gully too soon on the way up, or stay too late on the way down, you can expect a serious Organ Mountain Bushwhack. Follow the cairns, and it's surprisingly nice. Apr 24, 2011

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