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New Mexico
> Las Cruces Area…
> Organ Mountains
> Rabbit Ears Area
> Middle Rabbit Ear
East Ridge
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British
Avg: 1 from 1
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Routes in Middle Rabbit Ear
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Church Key T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1 |
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East Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Great Expectations T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gubbins T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Normal Route (South Corner) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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North Face Gullies T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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South Face Central T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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South Face Cutoff T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c C0 |
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Three's the Charm T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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West Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | Dick Ingraham, Paul Wohlt, Frank de Saussure |
| Page Views: | 477 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Marta Reece on Oct 30, 2013 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski |
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Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico Requirements - Updated Nov. 16, 2020
Details
Effective November 16th, 2020, please do not travel into New Mexico to climb.
On November 16, 2020, the New Mexico state governor updated the executive order (cv.nmhealth.org/wp-content/…) requiring all visitors from out of state to self-isolate or self-quarantine for a period of at least 14 days from the date of their entry into the State of New Mexico or for the duration of their presence in the State, whichever is shorter. The terms "self-isolate" or "self-quarantine" refer the voluntary physical separation of a person or group of people in a residence or other place of lodging. Any person who is self-isolating or self-quarantining may only leave a residence or place of lodging to receive medical care and should not allow others into the residence or place of lodging except for those providing medical care, emergency response, or other individuals designated by the New Mexico Department of Health.
The executive order also closes all New Mexico State Parks to non-NM residents.
This Executive Order shall take effect on November 16, 2020 and shall remain in effect through the duration of the public health emergency declared in Executive Order 2020-004 and any extensions of that emergency declaration or until it is rescinded.
Additionally, NM state guidance requires all persons to wear a mask anytime they are out in public, including outdoor recreation areas.
On November 16, 2020, the New Mexico state governor updated the executive order (cv.nmhealth.org/wp-content/…) requiring all visitors from out of state to self-isolate or self-quarantine for a period of at least 14 days from the date of their entry into the State of New Mexico or for the duration of their presence in the State, whichever is shorter. The terms "self-isolate" or "self-quarantine" refer the voluntary physical separation of a person or group of people in a residence or other place of lodging. Any person who is self-isolating or self-quarantining may only leave a residence or place of lodging to receive medical care and should not allow others into the residence or place of lodging except for those providing medical care, emergency response, or other individuals designated by the New Mexico Department of Health.
The executive order also closes all New Mexico State Parks to non-NM residents.
This Executive Order shall take effect on November 16, 2020 and shall remain in effect through the duration of the public health emergency declared in Executive Order 2020-004 and any extensions of that emergency declaration or until it is rescinded.
Additionally, NM state guidance requires all persons to wear a mask anytime they are out in public, including outdoor recreation areas.
Description
The description below, found in NMSU archives, was created by the legendary Southwest Mountaineers. It is at a minimum twenty years old, but likely dates as far back as 1970s. The rock itself may have changed since that time. The rating system certainly has. You will want to add at least a point to it. For comparison, the Normal Route, considered by many to be seriously sandbagged at 5.6, is listed in the same document as 5.5, the West Face as 5.6. So please treat what follows as a rough guide to an adventure, not as a solid and current info. If you do climb the route, sharing of what you learn would be appreciated.
"A popular intermediate route. Go down the NRE-MRE gully on the east side for about 300 to 400 feet loss of altitude to where you can traverse right on easy rock onto the NE Face. Traverse this all the way to the Ridge itself. The first pitch squeezes up a crack and narrow chimney about 60 feet. Go on up the ridge on easy rock for a pitch. Then it turns into a steep slab split by some parallel cracks with rotten rock a plenty. Mount this, the crux pitch, by starting on the left-hand crack and then stepping across to the right one about 60 feet up. Above this is a steep little chimney maneuver. Then run out the rope on easy fifth and forth class ridge for four pitches at least to the summit."
"A popular intermediate route. Go down the NRE-MRE gully on the east side for about 300 to 400 feet loss of altitude to where you can traverse right on easy rock onto the NE Face. Traverse this all the way to the Ridge itself. The first pitch squeezes up a crack and narrow chimney about 60 feet. Go on up the ridge on easy rock for a pitch. Then it turns into a steep slab split by some parallel cracks with rotten rock a plenty. Mount this, the crux pitch, by starting on the left-hand crack and then stepping across to the right one about 60 feet up. Above this is a steep little chimney maneuver. Then run out the rope on easy fifth and forth class ridge for four pitches at least to the summit."
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