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Areas in Rabbit Ears Area

Bastion Wall 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Citadel, The 16 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Cwm, The 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Fin, The 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Hot Gates 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Last peak 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Lesser Spire 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 5
Middle Rabbit Ear 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 10
North Rabbit Ear 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 16
North Side Rabbit Ears Canyon 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Northern Exposure Wall 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
ORP 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Pyramid of South Rabbit Ear 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Rabbit Ears Slabs 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 9
Rib Cage 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Shortline Wall 2 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
South Rabbit Ear 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Southern Comfort Wall 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Zoonotic 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

The area includes the Rabbit Ears proper with their extension northward as well as Rabbit Ears Towers on the west side of Rabbit Ears Canyon and the western foothills below including Southern Comfort Wall.

There are three Rabbit Ears (this being New Mexico, the home of Trinity with mutations rampant). The South Rabbit Ear is the smallest and getting to the top is a fourth class scramble if you start from the col between South and Middle Rabbit Ears. This is also the start of the Normal Route up the far more technical Middle Rabbit Ear, which is the highest of the three. North Rabbit Ear is home to the longest routes. This is because they start lower in the canyon. All three Rabbit Ears have huge faces of high quality rock. South Rabbit Ear's is primarily to the South, the other two to the East and North.

To the north of the North Rabbit Ear is Cwm with its slanting but surprisingly flat top riding up the flank of its huge neighbor. (Cwm is not really visible in the picture on the right, being tucked behind its large neighbor.) North of it Last Peak, with a similar summit plane, has a fourth class route to its summit, but many more possibilities.

The line of Rabbit Ears Towers makes the west wall of Rabbit Ears Canyon. From the south it starts with Rabbit Ears Massif and continues with ORP and Lesser Spire. Farther north the ridge splits into two. The eastern branch leads to the Citadel, the western one to Zoonotic, Shortline, and Rabbit Ears Slabs.

Little north of Lesser Spire a fin of rock juts out to the west. Its southern face is the Southern Comfort Wall, its end in the west The Fin, and its norther face Northern Exposure. Hot Gates are on a smaller such fin one canyon over to the north, and just west of the Citadel are Rabbit Ears Slabs.

Getting There

Either come to the peaks from the west, up Rabbit Ears Canyon, or from the east, up from the trail to Baylor Pass.

West Side Approach:

Access to Rabbit Ears Canyon is from Topp Hut Road, which takes off Baylor Canyon Road just north from where Baylor Canyon Road stops being paved. The entry to Topp Hut Road is marked, to the side of it, with a gate made of pipe. Few rock crawlers still do make it all the way to the old mine, but most standard suspension vehicles will stop short of the hut. The road gets harder quite rapidly, so you end up walking most of it anyway.

The road will branch eventually. Take the left branch for everything in the Rabbit Ears Canyon (Buckey Blue, Citadel, the Rabbit Ears themselves, and Orgy on ORP) and the right for the foothills (Southern Comfort, The Fin, Northern Exposure, and Hot Gates) and Lesser Spire.

If on the left fork, continue past the mine up a trail. All versions of this trail will converge shortly and continue fairly obviously to the mouth of Rabbit Ears Canyon. There is one spot where the trail seems to go to the left of a largish boulder. Step up onto the boulder instead and go right.

The terrain gets more interesting as you enter the canyon proper. It's what passes for a paved highway in the Organs - a mix of stepping boulder-to-boulder, walking on sloping rock, and scrambling up short steps.

The Rabbit Ears and their companions will show up when the canyon makes a turn. The North Rabbit Ear is the most prominent, the Middle Rabbit Ear is originally mostly obscured by it almost completely, and the South Rabbit Ear is seen as a smaller tooth to the right.

The right fork will widen at the end and the beat-up trail on the left leading up will wind all the way to the bottom of Southern Comfort and company.

East Side Approach:
As you drive into Aguirre Springs Campground, the trail to Baylor Pass will be the first trail to take off to the right. Go up from it to the saddle of your choice.

114 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Rabbit Ears Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 14
Boyer's Chute
Trad 5 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 9
Orgy
Trad 5 pitches
ORP
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 17
West Ridge
Trad 6 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 20
Bucky Blue
Trad 3 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 27
Lowenbrau Light
Trad 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 14
Clem's Folly
Trad 4 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 8
West Face
Trad 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
Murray's Crack
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 11
Wish You Were Here
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 28
Black Velvet
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 19
Margaritaville
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 10
Glad We Came
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 20
The Nose
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 6
West Face Corner
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
 11
Finger Zinger
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Boyer's Chute N Rabbit Ear
 14
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 5 pitches
Orgy ORP
 9
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 5 pitches
West Ridge Citadel
 17
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 6 pitches
Bucky Blue Rabbit Ears Slabs
 20
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Lowenbrau Light Southern Comfort Wall
 27
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Clem's Folly Citadel
 14
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
West Face Middle Rabbit Ear
 8
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 6 pitches
Murray's Crack Citadel
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Wish You Were Here Citadel
 11
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Black Velvet Southern Comfort Wall
 28
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Margaritaville Southern Comfort Wall
 19
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Glad We Came Citadel
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Nose Citadel
 20
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
West Face Corner N Rabbit Ear
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Finger Zinger Citadel
 11
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 Sport
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Dylan Pike
Sandy, UT
Dylan Pike   Sandy, UT
So, I just spent a beautiful sunny day wandering around the mountain just east of the old mine. I figured that I would share a bit of information regarding the approach to the north end of Rabbit Ears Canyon. After taking the left fork of Topp Hut road, you will come across the mine. There is a wash that heads due east, straight towards the rock face. It starts just past the old mine tailing pile. DO NOT take this wash! Instead, there is a trail that heads north from the mine and crosses a ridge before entering the drainage from the northern entrance to the canyon. This is the trail you want to take! Sorry if I ruined anyone's fun, but this would have been really helpful to my climbing team if we had read it before getting out to the Organs! Feb 9, 2014

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