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Routes in Middle Rabbit Ear

Church Key T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
East Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Great Expectations T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gubbins T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Normal Route (South Corner) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North Face Gullies T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
South Face Central T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
South Face Cutoff T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c C0
Three's the Charm T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
West Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad
FA: George Goedecke, Edmund Ward & Paul Seibert, Summer 1973: 5.8 A2
Page Views: 161 total, 3/month
Shared By: Marta Reece on Oct 30, 2013 with updates
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details


The description below, found in NMSU archives, was created by the legendary Southwest Mountaineers. It is at a minimum twenty years old, but likely dates as far back as 1970’s. The original rating was "Hard 5 and A2." Modern rating was provided by Karl Kiser for a free ascent he has done with Jim Graham.

"From the saddle between the South and Middle Rabbit Ears head 50 yards downhill to the west. A non-descript crack starts here. Up above, the crack becomes more distinct and runs straight up through a few overhangs.

"Pitch 1: Climb up this rack to where it overhangs. A couple of pins of aid gets you to a sloping ledge. Belay from this ledge.

"Pitch 2: Continue to follow the same crack system to a rather large overhanging section. The overhang is surmounted with some strenuous aid. The first few pins are in rotten rock which tends to make one nervous. Continue mixed aid and free until under a large overhanging block. Again surmount this overhang with some strenuous aid. Belay from a nice little ledge about 15 to 20 feet above the block. (Hint: It may be necessary to belay at the block because of all the rope friction.)

"Pitch 3: Finish the climb up the same crack system. This pitch is all free up and nice medium class 5 crack."


Approach from Rabbit Ears Canyon.


Protection is described only as "A2." Any bolts found will likely be old, meaning far below modern standards to start with and after all these years substantially deteriorated.


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